The peach cobbler at Country Time is worth the weekend trip

In this week's review of Country Time BBQ, I didn't have much to complain about. But I did lament that I couldn't try the peach cobbler because co-owner Jennifer Barkers only makes it on Thursdays and then sells it through the weekend. That was remedied after my review went to...

By Laura Shunk

September 16, 2011

Audio By Carbonatix

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In this week's review of Country Time BBQ, I didn't have much to complain about. But I did lament that I couldn't try the peach cobbler because co-owner Jennifer Barkers only makes it on Thursdays and then sells it through the weekend.

That was remedied after my review went to print. When Barkers found out I hadn't tried the dessert, she sent some to the office.

I was impressed with the nice gesture -- but I was more impressed with the cobbler itself.

The peaches were caramelized, candy-sweet and gooey with cinnamon and butter. They sat beneath a buttery, flaky sugared crust that was best crushed into small pieces and blended into the rest of the sticky dessert. Though there were certainly some cinnamon crumbles in the blend, the sweet was was more like peach pie in a cup than cobbler -- but that didn't stop me from polishing off every last bite.

I still think those cornbread muffins are sweet enough to count as dessert, but this cobbler would be an ideal finish to a smoked meat meal. I also wouldn't mind stopping into Country Time just for this, picking up a pint of vanilla ice cream on the way home.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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