Word of Mouth

The Thai green curry at the Dancing Noodle is worth the trek to Parker

Earlier this week, we found ourselves with a strong craving for Thai green curry -- and nowhere in our immediate vicinity to feed the beast.

Rather than settling for a sickeningly sweet but otherwise boring version that's considered passable on many Thai menus, we jumped in our cars and headed out to Parker for a tiny strip mall restaurant, the Dancing Noodle, 10841 South Crossroads Drive.

The green curry here is thick and creamy with just a hint of sweetness, deriving rich flavor from onions and garlic and made as fiery as you can handle with red chilies. We ordered the top heat level, and though we're sure the couple who owns the place could have been easily persuaded to fuel the fire until we wanted to rip our tongues out, we were pleased to find that level five on the heat scale gave us intense piquancy without overpowering every other element of the dish.

Loaded up with zucchini, Thai eggplant, broccoli and firm cubes of tofu (chicken, beef, shrimp and squid are available, too) and served over rice, the hearty dish was exactly what we wanted -- and well worth the jaunt.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk