Ryan Leinonen at his restaurant, Trillium.
Ryan Leinonen at his restaurant, Trillium.
Mark Manger

Trillium: a taste of this week's review

Unless you're a movie buff, you probably don't remember The Doctor, a touching early-'90s film about a surgeon diagnosed with cancer. Having seen life through a patient's lens, the doctor, played by Oscar winner William Hurt, learns to practice a different, more empathetic kind of medicine after his recovery.

Ryan Leinonen, chef-owner of Trillium, the Scandinavian-American hot spot that opened last December in the Ballpark neighborhood, should order the movie from Netflix on his next day off.

I say this not because Leinonen needs an etiquette lesson. Though I've never met him -- as a critic, I dine incognito -- I have spoken to him by phone, and the Michigan native comes off as both passionate and smart, with a refreshing lack of tolerance for the division so often found in professional kitchens. But after all his years as a high-end chef -- Leinonen spent time at Colt & Gray and the Kitchen and was the opening chef at Root Down -- I think he would benefit from seeing Trillium not in chef's whites, but in street clothes.... Hungry to know more? Read the full review of Trillium here.


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