4

Via shows the way for consistent Italian cuisine

^
Keep Westword Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Denver and help keep the future of Westword free.

Some restaurants change over time. Some places stay exactly the same. The mission of Second Helping is to separate one from the other.

Via was an awesome restaurant when I reviewed it sixteen months ago. Opened by Venanzio and Anthony Momo — who also own Cucina Coloré in Cherry Creek and employed Andrea Frizzi, now of Il Posto (see review, page 45), in both kitchens — it had gone through some tough times: opening strong under Frizzi, nose-diving in the care of Rollie Wesen, then coming back again under the skilled hand of James Mazzio.

Mazzio was the man in charge in April 2007, and he still is today. It shows: Via remains a constant, consistent source for superior, glossy trattoria cuisine. From the first moment (excellent table bread, served warm and soft as if straight from the oven, and with a powerful seasoned oil on the side) to the last (key lime semifreddo with a glass of ten-year-old port), Via has got it together in exactly the way a restaurant going into its fourth year should: It has a sense of veteran ease, as if the house has been doing this, and exactly this, forever.

Info

Via

1801 Wynkoop Street
303-295-1488
www.viatrattoria.com

Last week, I dropped in for a late lunch. Riding the curve of service, I had a cup of escarole and cannelini bean soup with bacon that had just been put on the heat — perfectly cooked greens, crunchy and soft at the same time, with al dente white beans and a sprinkling of chopped bacon for salt and savor. I followed it with the house's near-signature handmade lobster ravioli in red-pepper saffron sauce that required two additional plates of bread from the kitchen for mopping and a strength of character that I frankly didn't think I possessed not to just pick the dish up when I was done and lick it.

Mazzio has trained his guys well and assembled a solid, if not particularly innovative, board of high-end Italian staples; just for kicks, he also puts out several specials every week just to keep everything feeling fresh and vital. It's rare that I get to say that a place is unchanged from when it was first reviewed — but in the case of Via, that's high praise indeed.

Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.