4

Woody's Wings

^
Keep Westword Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Denver and help keep the future of Westword free.

At Big Hoss Bar-B-Q (see review, page 44), owner and Buffalo native Hoss Orwat does chicken wings – because every restaurant guy who's ever spent time in Buffalo is bound by law and tradition to do chicken wings at his joint, no matter its official cuisine or location. But, being Hoss, he doesn't do the usual chicken wings. These are pit-smoked to start, then finished in the fryer. Also, he sells them by the pound.

Good as such unusual wings can be, sometimes you want the real deal: Anchor Bar/La Nova/Bob & John's-style wings as big as a child's fist and hot enough to burn your mustache hairs. When that mood hit, I used to rely on Luciano's on Broadway, owned by a Buffalo refugee. But last week I found another option: Woody's Wings in Aurora, which I visited on a whim. I should have known from the minute I walked in the door that I was going to be happy here, because as any aficionado of good wings will tell you, a proper wing joint 1) does nothing but wings and sides from the fryer (except for maybe pizza), and 2) has a smell about it that's absolutely unmistakable. It's the stink of hot butter-flavored oil and Frank's RedHot steaming on sizzling chicken -- an astringent and caustic reek powerful enough to lift your chin and make your breath jag. To me, it's the smell of good times and last calls, of frozen winter nights and summer afternoons when I, like most residents of Buffalo, lived on chicken wings and Canadian beer and was happy to do so.

Woody's does wings by the ten-count, in sauces that range from mild (pretty much just butter with a kiss of hot sauce) to hot (which isn't really that hot, but just biting enough to make a cool cup of blue-cheese dressing appropriate) to nuclear (which I haven't tried because I'm not a sadist). The dining room looks like it could have been transported whole from an Elmwood Avenue street corner – it's just a big white box festooned with sports pennants, wobbly tables, an ancient Galaga machine and a couple TVs always showing different sporting events -- and is overseen by the open line at the back, where a crowd of sweating line dogs dunk and shake and sauce and toss all night long. Woody's is counter service only, and it's not exactly quick, since the cooks give each batch of wings a good eighteen minutes in the oil so that they're cooked to the bone and have a nice, crisp skin. But these big, fat wings are worth the wait.

Info

Woody's Wings

Woody's Wings
1740 South Buckley Road, Aurora
303-696-7227

Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.