In the kitchen at Maria Empanada

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Owner Lorena Cantarovici.
Maria Empanada owner Lorena Cantarovici, who came to the States eleven years ago, is tiny and sassy; I'd expect nothing else from a Buenos Aires native. Three years ago, she decided to open a catering business that would use her mother's recipes for empanadas, and she got to work tweaking that process for the dry Colorado climate. "The key is the dough," she told me one day. "And the dough depends on the air, the weather, the day! It was hard." But eventually she nailed it, and by last fall, her business was going so well that she needed a bigger kitchen. Continue reading Laura Shunk's Maria Empanada restaurant review. Photos by Mark Manger.