Opinion | Reader Response

“We All Hunger for Old-School Denver Restaurants”

Readers share some of the places they miss the most.
White Fence Farm is gone, but not forgotten.

Danielle Lirette

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Even as we savor the good times we had at long-gone restaurants, we report on fresh closures. This year, we finally got confirmation that Benny’s really isn’t coming back, and we said goodbye to longtime favorites like Fruition, Lao Wang Noodle House, Mercury Cafe and Pete’s University Park Cafe.

Some spots we long to go to again closed in recent years, like Old Major, Annie’s Cafe, the Saucy Noodle and its neighbor, Bonnie Brae Tavern, while others like Baby Doe’s, Cliff Young’s, Pagliacci’s and Tante Louise have been gone for decades.

After Molly Martin served up some of the restaurants she missed the most, Denver diners shared a hefty helping of nostalgia in their comments on the Westword Facebook page post of the story. Says Niccolo:

The loss is real. None of these places were expensive — the food was fine enough for the “fancy” people, and flavorful enough for the working stiff.

Responds Joe:

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We all hunger for old-school Denver restaurants.

Adds Zelda:


I loved many of those places. I ate many expense account dinners at Dudley’s and Cafe Giovanni.

Offers Lynn:

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My big three were Racines, Le Central and the Market.

Replies Karla:

The closure of Racine’s still stings. I miss Annie’s Cafe. too. You missed another longtime favorite, Avenue Grill. I went there from 1991 until it closed, for brunch, lunch, dinner or just cocktails.

Responds Zu:

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Those are all memorable restaurants and great losses to Denver. For me, I miss Pagliacci’s the most. I also miss Strings and Avenue Grill.

Suggests Phyllis:

Also missing is the Fourth Story when the Tattered Cover was in Cherry Creek. Also: Papillon, Rattlesnake Grill, Piatti’s, Campo di Fiori. But Mel’s will always be at the top of my list.

Comments Charles:

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Honorable mentions: Goodfriends on East Colfax; Apple Tree Shanty, also on East Colfax; Emilene’s on Smith Road; Duffy’s in downtown Denver. More came to mind: McFann’s, the New York Connection, Footers (all on Cap Hill back in the day); Governr’s Park over by the Governor’s Mansion just a block from Benny’s; Zach’s (a “fern bar”) on Humboldt; and when I was very, very young, Little Pepina’s over on Osage. That place holds legendary status in my family…

Recalls Pat:


LOVED the Yum Yum Tree! As a teenager, we used to drive from Boulder to eat there. My fave was Tommy Wongs.

Comments Axis:

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White Fence Farm was great, now that is one I miss.

Responds Kevin:

There’s a direct line between “Why is our food scene so bland?” and “I miss the bland chicken at White Fence Farm.”

Offers Doug:

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I ate at every one of these places except White Fence, and can’t say that I miss any of them all that much. Atmosphere comes and goes. New owners can’t put their finger on how to market nostalgia to a largely migratory population now. Venture Capital is buying up everything post-crash and you will just be making billionaires richer, so why even support that? Seek mom-and-pops. Defy the status quo. Don’t listen to influencers.

What was the saddest restaurant closing of the year? What places do you miss the most? Post a comment or share your thoughts at editorial@westword.com.

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