Review: The Squeaky Bean Could Be Too Much Fun

The Squeaky Bean 1500 Wynkoop Street 303-623-2665 If The Squeaky Bean were a person, it would be the kid making wisecracks in the back of the class, smart enough to ace the test without cracking open a book. It knows the rules but chooses to break them — first in…

Review: Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery Is a Quick Hit

Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery 4990 East Colfax Avenue 720-550-7665 Meats are sizzling, tofu’s frying, pots are clanging: It’s game time, and the reality of a roomful of diners has hit Chop Shop hard. The chef has a word with someone on the line; she moves stations and the tempo…

Twelve Late-Night Spots That Make Industry Folks Very Happy

Happy hour takes the edge off, helping us unwind after a long day. But for people in the restaurant biz, happy hour isn’t so happy: It marks the beginning of a long shift to come. That’s why Cart-Driver, which I review this week, stays open late, with food and drink…

Review: Cart-Driver Looks Like a Winner in the Fast-Casual Pizza Race

Cart-Driver 2500 Larimer Street 303-292-3553 The midterm elections may be a blip in the rearview mirror, but Denver remains a battleground. Only instead of politicians vying for voters, restaurateurs are fighting for guests. This is especially true in the pizza business, where the campaign remains as heated as the thousand-degree…

With Menu Design, Less Can Be More

At dinner recently I was handed a sushi-style menu, with a list of items to check off by the piece. The restaurant wasn’t Japanese; it had simply adapted the format for its charcuterie and cheeses. We glanced at the long list and set it aside, not in the mood for…

Five Favorite Sweet Treats for Kids and Adults Alike in Denver

It doesn’t take a late-night raid of leftover Halloween candy to make you feel like a kid again. At the District, which I review this week, you can relive your lunchbox days with a better peanut-butter-and-jelly than Mom ever packed. This Uptown eatery serves the sandwich beer-battered and fried, with…

Review: The District Makes a Course Correction

The District 1320 East 17th Avenue 303-813-6688 I don’t live in the district that is home to The District, the historic area in Uptown that inspired the restaurant’s name. But I drive by often, so it’s been easy to keep tabs on the place. At the start of summer, I…

Cart-Driver Will Open for Lunch Today at Noon

I’ve always thought that Cart-Driver, with its blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas and lightning-fast kitchen, would be a great lunch spot. Problem was, it wasn’t open for lunch. Starting today, however, that will change. At noon, the doors of this trendy little restaurant sandwiched into the shipping container next to Work &…

How Stoic & Genuine Stays Fresh With Its Menu…and Seafood

When people talk about eating seasonally, they’re usually referring to the harvest: butternut squash in the fall, asparagus in the spring, and so on. But at Stoic & Genuine,the hot new seafood restaurant in Union Station, seasonality refers to something different, something measured not in frost-free days but spawning, catch…

Review: Stoic & Genuine Is a Keeper

Stoic & Genuine 1701 Wynkoop Street Aside from the name, everything about Stoic & Genuine shouts seafood. In the raw bar, oysters and crab legs glisten on ice. Emerald-glass floats, salvaged from fishing nets, fill a case by the hostess stand. Light bounces off mirrored panels like moonlight on silvery…

Fall Has Arrived at Local Kitchens — Including Mine

This year, just as I’ve done for as long as my kids can remember, I joined a local farm share. Flush with produce for nearly five months, I made zucchini bread, seared green beans, melon aguas frescas, panzanella, turnip puree and fennel-and-orange salads, cooking my way from early summer to…

Review: Gone Swishin’ at Kobe An Shabu Shabu

Kobe An Shabu Shabu 3400 Osage Street 303-284-6342 Somewhere along the line, cooking became a chore. For reasons best left to food historians and sociologists, the art of feeding ourselves has tumbled in popularity and now hovers just above taking out the trash on the list of most despised household…

Kobe An Closes in Lakewood, Will Resurface in Cherry Creek

Changes are afoot — er, make that afish — at Kobe An. This past weekend, the long-running Japanese restaurant served its last meal in Lakewood, shutting down prior to an upcoming move to Cherry Creek North early this winter. It’s taking over the former home of Cherry (and Bar Luxe,…

Cornstarch Takes a Turn in the Spotlight at Argyll, the Noshery

Food is every bit as trendy as the clothes we wear. In the ’80s, sundried tomatoes were fashionable. These days, menus are accented with guanciale, kombucha and pickled everything, from onions to chard stems. One ingredient that’s stayed away from the spotlight? Cornstarch. But that could change. See also: Behind…