Brothers Quiang and Sky Chen own this Fontana Sushi, the only link in a chain otherwise belonging to Kevin Lin. Wanting a place where they could offer both the authentic Japanese gyoza, soba, katsu and tempura that form the street-food backbone of their native cuisine as well as a spread of Tokyo new-wave dishes, the brothers picked this unlikely location in a strip mall. The menus can be just as surprising, full of ultra-modern sushi interpretations as well as chirashi plates and tempura ice cream.