Bar manager Grant Williams bought the Coral Room from his boss in the winter of 2014, then closed it for a few weeks for a remodel and menu revamp. Only a few months after that did he decide to relaunch the restaurant, as Small Wonder Food and Wine, a neighborhood bistro specializing in organic, local and seasonal fare. Entrees are comfortable and familiar, similar to what we’ve grown accustomed to from restaurants with a comparable focus, with everything from pork belly to salmon to steak. It’s in the area of vegetables – either paired with the proteins or on their own as small plates – that the kitchen really shines. Depending on the season, that might mean corn-studded polenta, roasted delicata squash stuffed with creamed Brussels sprouts, or a savory pumpkin tart with smoked walnuts and ricotta.