Molly Martin
Audio By Carbonatix
I was catching up with Laura Shunk, a former Westword restaurant reviewer and the current head of the Colorado Restaurant Foundation, over a beer or three at the Fainting Goat, a favorite Westword haunt. Looking around, we wondered about the future of neighborhood spots like the Goat, as well as the future of more upscale, destination restaurants. What was going to happen to so many landmarks? What will take their place? What’s the future of Denver dining?
Our discussion led to Laura’s thoughtful essay, “What Will Denver’s Dining Scene Look Like in Five Years?” And after outlining a grim future, she offers an alternative: “There is also a version of the future in which the full spectrum of restaurants – from the grab-and-go convenience shop to the three-star Michelin trailblazer, from the food stall hawking novelty to the well-worn neighborhood joint (especially the well-worn neighborhood joint!) – is alive and well. A future in which new ideas see the light of day, some of them dying because they’re truly insane and some of them just crazy enough to push everyone forward. A future in which Denver again lives its social life in food and watering holes because we can all afford to do so. A future in which Denver isn’t looking back to its halcyon pre-COVID days, but is moving forward toward something better.”
Her look at the future of Denver dining provided plenty of food for thought for those who live to eat, as well as those who make their living in the hospitality scene. People like Alicia Davey of Zomo, who says:
This nearly made me cry. Owning a restaurant is so hard, and when it is your passion and love to provide for others and it feels impossible to sustain, it hurts to the core. I hope we can do the things Laura mentioned moving forward to survive and one day THRIVE!
Other readers were quick to chime in. Adds Dusty:
The cost of running a place downtown is astronomical. It’s a tremendous challenge to make enough money to survive the slow times caused by construction, construction, construction, weather, pandemics, economic malaise and everything else.
Suggests Michael:
In five years there will only be handfuls of local and old-school restaurants. There will be tons more chains serving homogenous items from monopoly food distributors, and all the dishes will be even more salty than they are now. You will order at a kiosk, your food will be delivered by a robot, and no one will care if you enjoyed your meal. French fries will be $14 everywhere because Governor Jared Polis and the Colorado Legislature were too dumb to understand how to effectively regulate the AI-driven dynamic pricing model that will make every meal a test of your pain points.
Offers Walt:
Zoning and permit leniency would definitely encourage hospitality investment in Denver (as the author suggests). But the city is at a distinct disadvantage in comparison to the ‘burbs by continuing to tax personal property (along with the state) for businesses assessed with value over $56K. This is especially detrimental to breweries and distilleries who require expensive equipment.
Adds Jason:
It’s interesting that in the south metro area and Castle Rock I see places opening, places packed and flourishing. I lived downtown for twenty years. The central core has lost tons of parking and it’s a hassle. I still hit up my fave Brewery Bar II for green chile, but not much else is worth the hassle, what with plenty of great options in the ‘burbs around with easy, free parking.
Couonters Kevin:
It was already getting dull before COVID. Too many pretentious places doing nothing particularly new or interesting were popping up. Meanwhile, rents were pushing out old and lower-cost faves. The thing with “come to the burbs, lots of parking” is the burbs suck as a destination – it’s just a lot of parking and nothing. Doesn’t help that everywhere is charging $10 for a beer and $16 for a cocktail with dinner. Might as well make it at home at that point. The fees are also exhausting. Tell me upfront what I’m paying.
Concludes Robert:
More Sysco slop for us brain-dead consumers.
What do you think of the current scene? What do you see as the future of Denver dining? Post a comment or share your thoughts at editorial@westword.com.
