212 in the 303

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212 Salad and Sandwich Company 1710 Sherman Street 303-861-7212

42nd Street Corned beef, turkey, coleslaw, lettuce and thousand island dressing on rye $6.49

I don't know if it's a rule that every New York-style deli that opens outside of the five boroughs has to name all of its sandwiches after New York landmarks, neighborhoods, streets or personalities. But it seems to be a general guideline.

And 212 Salad and Sandwich Company, which itself is named after New York's iconic area code, is no exception to this quasi-rule. It carries everything from the Greenwich Village and the Tribeca, to the 5th Avenue and the 42nd Street, to the Hell's Kitchen and the Studio 54.

I tried the 42nd Street, which didn't quite pass my test: A sandwich that you buy from a deli should be better - or take more effort or have more ingredients -- than something you can throw together at home. If I looked in my fridge at any given time, I might find some turkey, some corned beef, a container of leftover coleslaw, lettuce and some dressing. And I could throw it all together to come up with basically the same sandwich that the 212 made.

It tasted fine and was filling, but I'm not sure the actual 42nd Street would put it up on a marquee. - Jonathan Shikes

For previous sandwiches, log onto the Our Weekly Bread archive.

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Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.


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