Word of Mouth

Adam Mali resurfaces at Nick's Cove

The January 11 Denver Post travel section included a Los Angeles Times story on Nick's Cove, a "chic, eccentric hideaway" an hour north of San Francisco -- but one with a significant Denver connection.

Turns out the chef de cuisine at Nick's is none other than Adam Mali, the Montecito chef Jason Sheehan raved about when he reviewed that successor to Mel's (shown here) before it turned into Mel's again and then disappeared altogether. (The space at 1120 East Sixth Avenue is now occupied by Mojitos.) And Mali, who'd made the trip with Mel Master from Cherry Creek to East Sixth and two more restaurants in Greenwood village) hit the road for California.

 

On the Nick's Cove website, Mali is lauded for his 21 years of experience in the biz, including a stint at Restaurant Gary Danko in SF -- but there's no mention of his time at Montecito, or Restaurant Kody in Evergreen, or Ajax Tavern in Aspen.

Nick's, an old fishing settlement, was renovated by SF restaurateur Pat Kuleto; the chef at his restaurant Farallon, Mark Franz, is a part-owner of Nick's Cove and listed as executive chef on the website, working closely with Mali as they continue "enhancing Nick's Cove's now legendary menu."

And Mali could be just the guy to do it. As Sheehan observed, his cuisine is "unabashedly Californian."

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Patricia Calhoun co-founded Westword in 1977; she’s been the editor ever since. She’s a regular on the weekly CPT12 roundtable Colorado Inside Out, played a real journalist in John Sayles’s Silver City, once interviewed President Bill Clinton while wearing flip-flops, and has been honored with numerous national awards for her columns and feature-writing.
Contact: Patricia Calhoun