San Telmo Market & Deli Brings Argentinian Cuisine and Culture to Golden

It began as a typical arrangement seen over many Fourth of July outings: a mother dancing with a toddler, a girlfriend leaning against a boyfriend’s shoulder, uncles and cousins chatting about sports while one teen stared down at their phone.

Smoke wafted from the grill as beef slabs and pork sausages rendered down and a husband kept vigilant watch over the coals. Flags hung from the balcony, streamers hung from fences, and people sported painted faces. What began as a table of six grew to a block party of nearly one hundred neighbors eating, hugging and chatting. When the national anthem blared from the screen, most stopped what they were doing and sang out:

Oíd, mortales, el grito sagrado:
"¡Libertad! ¡Libertad! ¡Libertad!"

It was clear in that moment, just before the Copa America game between Argentina and Ecuador, that San Telmo Market, located in Golden, is far more than a grocery store. It's a hub for authentic community.

One family’s passion turned into a one-of-a-kind store

For Leonela Aguada and her husband, Leandro Matayoshi, this market is a mission built from firsthand experiences. “I moved to Golden in January of 2021 to start my master's in geology at the Colorado School of Mines, and I came alone at first. Then three months later, Leandro came to visit," Aguada says. "We liked Golden so much that we decided to start a business here. We had two burger joints in Buenos Aires. We sold everything so that we could start our business here. ... We put the eggs all in one basket.

"I realized the need to have Argentinian products here. As a student, I felt that other businesses and their products were too expensive. There was nothing in Colorado that was an Argentinian business," she continues. "So at first, we started as only online. ... When we started to offer a pickup option, they started to come [to the store], and they wanted to talk to us and touch the products as well. ... I think they wanted the comfort of home here. People were asking for more. We kept growing [and] had an official opening in October of 2021 with the marketplace. We started the deli on May 25" — a date commemorating the "Day of Revolution" in 1810 for Argentinians.

She continues, "We did the inauguration, and many people came, which was spectacular. ... We kept growing by adding more space for the Copa America. We did a patio with tables and chairs, more space outside, a new picnic zone. ... What we have always wanted is that people feel at home."

One hundred percent Argentinian products

San Telmo provides a wide array of classic foods from Argentina, from numerous flavors of empanadas to "sandwiches parrilla" (Argentine barbecue sandwiches) that set it apart.

There are classic staples like choripan, an Argentinian pork sausage with chimichurri; and vacio, an Argentinian-style beef steak. For those who want to experiment on the grill at home, all of those cuts and more are stocked in the fridges.

For those with a sweet tooth, try the alfajores or cheese-filled medialunas. Need to switch your caffeine routine? Stock up on Argentina’s national beverage, yerba mate. There are dozens of brands of the drink that aren't available anywhere else in the state, including hierbas serranas styles, which mix mate with aromatic mountain herbs like mint and peppermint. It also has plenty of bombillas, or mate gourds, so you can sit and sip on site.

Locals share what San Telmo means to them

For Sergio Martinez, who works at LoHi Latin restaurant Señor Bear, the connection to San Telmo began in 2019. “I feel at home [at the market]. My daughters love the alfajores, and they are in love with Argentina. ... I still have my mom back in Buenos Aires. It’s a big culture shock to be living in this country and in Colorado, and all of sudden you come [to San Telmo]," he says, stopping to point down at the perforated duct tape by our feet. One side says “USA” in white and the other, “ARG” in sky blue. “Just look at those lines right there. You literally walk through there, and that’s it.”

Dario, a friend of the owners' who attends the games, says, “One of the things I really love about this country is the connection between people. It’s the key to success. That’s why this place is a special place.”

Mines College student Leticia has made lifelong friends through San Telmo’s events. “I arrived from Patagonia in August, and when I spent time here, I met new people. It's so important for me. It’s like Little Argentina.”

For Neiza Cortejarena, there’s no place like this besides her home province of La Pampa, Argentina. “I’m a constant customer of this place. San Telmo is to be at home and family, to be a part of the culture, for us to have a voice.”

“You show up for the community," adds Golden local Josh Ma. “Argentinians are super warm, super friendly and welcoming. The fact that they’re setting up chairs outside to watch the game and bring people together is amazing.”

Not a store, but a bridge

“For us, we want to make it feel like home, and there are people that come alone who don't have family. We are alone with them; we don't have any family here," Aguada concludes. “For us, San Telmo is our family, and we want to replicate that for others. We are like a bridge — they come here, have an empanada, they make friends with others. We are the bridge to allow others to get to know each other to make friends, even during futbol matches. We’re proud of that.”

What’s next?

Aguada and Matayoshi are seeking muralists to further their vision for the courtyard. “We are looking for artists to make a mural on the wall as well as the stairs to represent Argentina [through] food, family, soccer.”

San Telmo Market & Deli is located at 813 14th Street in Golden and is open from 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. For more information, visit santelmomarket.com or follow it on Instagram @santelmo.market.

Editor's note: Some of the interviews in this story were translated from Spanish to English by Vivian Pérez and Vivian Lemus.