Cafe Society

Bread pudding can be a savoury as well as sweet treat -- but not at Braun

Like vegetables, desserts are seasonal. Just as we're moving out of winter's root vegetables and into spring's pea shoots and asparagus, we're also moving towards refreshing sweets such as berry tarts and ice cream.

But we're not there yet, which is why you'll still see heavier fare such as bread pudding on dessert menus, where I found it recently when reviewing Braun Taphaus & Grille. See also: Braun Taphaus & Grille: Can the Bar-On family give this place a sporting chance?

That version, made not with bread but soft pretzels, was dry, and nowhere near as good as a sublime dessert I had at Gaia Bistro this past winter, with apples, raisins and whiskey caramel.

But bread pudding doesn't have to be sweet. Over the past few months, I've also enjoyed savory versions, such as a gruyere bread pudding at Acorn and brioche bread pudding with seared romaine and celery root at Lower48 Kitchen.

They were good while they lasted; with temperatures climbing, I'm looking forward to tarts and shortcake.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz