Cafe Society

Colorado cuisine is a culinary rodeo: Libertarian and lawless

I was back in Denver for three weeks last month, during which I ate what was basically one continuous meal interspersed with brief lulls that occurred when I had to switch venues or go to sleep (which was sort of often, given the food comas and also the drowsiness that comes on after the day-drinking I forgot that you all love to do -- I blame the altitude for my inability to keep up). This gluttonous respite was awesome. I knew I loved Denver's restaurants, but coming from a different city -- especially a city like New York City, where you can find practically infinite dining options -- brought into focus what makes eating and drinking in my home town really unique. See also: - Denver spots I'll miss the most - With Uncle, Tommy Lee proves he knows how to use the old noodle -- and make it new - Laura Shunk dishes out some tips for Gretchen Kurtz, the new Cafe critic
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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk