Denver's barbecue scene has been slowly evolving and some of our favorite pitmasters are on wheels. While one, Mama Jo's Biscuits and BBQ, just moved into a brick-and-mortar on Colfax, another truck that launched last summer is also dreaming of one day opening a permanent location of its own.
Originally from Israel, Jordy's Barbecue owner David Haskia's path to launching his food truck last year began nearly a decade earlier, fueled by a love of adventure, a cross-country road trip, and an unexpected passion for the art of live-fire cooking.
"I came here in 2015. I had just finished my service, three years in the army, and decided I wanted to explore more. So, I came to the country of endless possibilities. I landed in L.A., and that's where I met my wife, Jordan. We met in early 2016, and we've been together ever since," Haskia recalls.
The two quickly started building a life together, buying their first home and settling into the rhythm of Southern California living. But an adventurous spirit is something that's hard to contain for long and in 2023, the couple decided it was time for a new chapter. They bought an RV, packed up their three dogs, and embarked on a transformative eight-month adventure across the country. "We pretty much hit every state possible," says Haskia. "It was an amazing trip."
The purpose of the journey wasn't just to satisfy their thirst for exploring, but also to find the perfect place to call home. Colorado was their first stop, and they were immediately drawn to the state's natural beauty and climate. While the trip continued, they returned to Colorado last March and decided to settle down.
It was around that time that Haskia's passion for cooking resurfaced. Reflecting on his childhood in a kibbutz in Israel, Haskia recalls being surrounded by a community that valued communal meals and celebrations.
It was there that he was introduced to South American-style barbecue, particularly the Santa Maria grill style, which involves a large roast and live-fire cooking. "In the kibbutz, there were a lot of Europeans, but also a lot of South Americans, and a lot of my friends were South American. We used to barbecue constantly," Haskia says.
In addition to cooking with the community, he also worked in restaurants when he was young. "I used to be a waiter and bus guy, and then I started helping the chef, becoming a sous chef, learning about the kitchen segment, and actually cooking. I really liked it," he recalls.
Although he worked in the industry during his younger years and always maintained a passion for cooking, his professional career led him to the field of business advertising. However, when he settled in Colorado, he decided to turn his passion into reality.
"Right when we landed here, we decided to start a food truck," he says. "This big boy [referencing the rig] was custom-made, a special order from Texas. It took about three months for it to be delivered. Then I started experimenting. It took me a couple of months to get used to it, to understand how the whole smoker works, the heat spots, the perfect spots for all the meats that need special attention. Once I finished practicing, we were ready to open."
Jordy's Barbecue is named after Haskia's wife, who has been a steadfast supporter of his culinary passion. The truck made its debut last August.
Haskia's approach to barbecue is rooted in simplicity and respect for the meat. His central Texas-style brisket, which he describes as the "star of the show," takes between fourteen to eighteen hours to cook. He uses only salt, pepper and Lawry's seasoning salt, letting the quality of the beef shine through. "It's really more about the technique and less about the rubs. I want people to enjoy tasting the beef itself. ... I really put a lot of attention on the briskets. The last thing you want to hear from someone is like, 'Oh, it's dry.' That's the curse of all pitmasters. You don't want to hear those words; it's literally like losing a child. So, I just give it the time to get it to the juiciness and tenderness that I like."
In addition to brisket, the menu includes other proteins such as pulled pork, pork belly, turkey breast, spare ribs and sausages. Nothing goes to waste at Jordy's Barbecue. "I use the trimmings from the brisket to make our sausages," Haskia explains. "There's a video of the process on our website. If it's pork that we're trimming, like pork shoulder or ribs, I use it to make broth. Everything is made from scratch, and we don't throw anything away."
It's not just about the proteins; Jordy's also serves all of the traditional sides such as mac and cheese, creamy potato salad, coleslaw, beans and banana pudding. No matter the menu item, Haskia ensures that everything is as high-quality as possible. "We're very particular about our our menu, and everything on it has probably gone through thousands of tests before it showed up on the menu. My wife and I are our own critics and give each other direct feedback. Everything is made out of straight passion," he notes.
Haskia's passion for barbecue extends beyond the food itself to the process, which he finds meditative and fulfilling. "The whole waking up at 2 a.m. or 3 a.m., I know it sounds weird, but I actually love it. You're by yourself. Nobody's talking to you, nobody's bothering you. You just enjoy live fire and wood fire cooking, and you just enjoy the silence before the whole world wakes up," he says.
This weekend, Jordy's will be at Improper City from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Friday, March 14, and Zuni Street Brewing on Saturday, March 15 from 1 to 9 p.m. It will also be serving up beef dino ribs while supplies last for St. Patrick's Day on Monday, March 17 from noon to 9 p.m. at New Terrain Brewing in Golden.
Though it's been less than a year since launching the food truck, Jordy's Barbecue is already exploring the possibility of opening a brick-and-mortar location, potentially in the Arvada area.
As prime barbecue season approaches, be sure to check out its website, jordysbbq.com, where you can find a link to the truck's schedule. You can also follow its journey on Instagram @jordys_barbecue.