Here in cow country, there's no shortage of good steakhouses -- but LoHi SteakBar, Sean Kelly's new restaurant at 3200 Tejon Street, already ranks right at the top. Here are ten more of Denver's best steakhouses.
1. The Capital Grille (1450 Larimer St., 303-539-2500). The Capital Grille has done the impossible and found customers to fill another steakhouse in a town already overrun with steakhouses. And all it had to do was be better than everyone else in every possible way.
2. Columbine Steak House & Lounge (300 Federal Blvd., 303-936-9110). Columbine Steakhouse is a survivor, the kind of place they don't make anymore, haven't made for decades: a steak diner, with a faded dining room in front and a dim lounge in the back. This could be the last of the great $10 steaks. 3. Cowbobas (2991 W. Evans Ave., 303-934-3301). Cowbobas is a combination cowboy steakhouse and Vietnamese boba tea shop that also serves coffee, corn dogs and a jackfruit smoothie so syrupy sweet you'll think you're having a heart attack. The entrees are mostly steaks -- from a 22-ounce porterhouse for fifteen bucks to a nine-ounce strip loin for less than ten -- and a meal here is always a dip in to the culinary melting pot. $-$$ 4. Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse (8100 E. Orchard Rd., Englewood, 303-796-0100). Del Frisco's exists for one reason and one reason only: to bring huge whacks of 100 percent American corn-fed beef to diners with big appetites and bigger wallets. Everything beyond that -- from the power-broker decor to the cigar lounge and high-tone bar -- is just theater, sideshows for the main attraction. 5. Elway's (2500 E. 1st Ave., 303-399-5353). Every neighborhood needs a neighborhood restaurant, and in Cherry Creek, that neighborhood restaurant is Elway's. Chef Tyler Wiard and his crew cook from a menu that speaks to the primal needs of Cherry Creekers: all steaks and swank and smarts. 6. Emil-Lene's Sirloin House (16000 E. Smith Rd., Aurora, 303-366-6674). Emil-Lene's is a Colorado institution, where the Wild West cowboy history of cattle and hats and six-guns isn't just a theme, but served right up on the plate alongside the giant steaks and sides of spaghetti. The grub is cowtown classic and the kitchen a genuine throwback to the days when beef was always what was for dinner. 7. Morton's (1710 Wynkoop St., 303-825-3353; 8480 E. Belleview Ave., Englewood, 303-409-1177) From the minute you step inside Morton's dark, dignified space, you feel like you're part of a very secret club: the royal order of carnivores. This steakhouse serves food fit for a king, in king-sized portions. Order the town's best martini, and ask your smooth, practiced server to roll out the cart that displays the giant veggies, spuds, steaks and still-living lobsters that could be your meal that night. 8. The Palm (1672 Lawrence St., 303-825-7256). People keep coming to the Palm to eat big meat and watch big names doing the same.
9. Bastiens (3501 E. Colfax Ave. 303-322-0363). In terms of history alone, Bastien's would make this list--the place has survived for decades, after all, and once served as a watering hole for Truman Capote. But it's nice that Bastien's also serves up one helluva steak (its sugar steak in particular) and does so at a price that won't leave you gasping from sticker shock.
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10. Sullivan's Steakhouse (1745 Wazee St., 303-295-2664). It's not quite as lower-end as they'd like you to believe, but the final check at this classy steakhouse is still less likely to give you a heart attack than one at those bigger boys, and the steaks are sublime.