Edge at the Four Seasons is a sure bet for spotting Denver's 1 percenters

When President Barack Obama came to Denver last week, he snubbed the Brown Palace -- which has hosted every president since Teddy Roosevelt except Calvin Coolidge -- for the Four Seasons.

Perhaps our head of state prefers the international amenities and service standards of the high-class luxury hotel chain, which planted a location in Denver a year ago.

When the Four Seasons opened, it came with a restaurant: Edge is a sleek, swanky space that offers an upscale version of Colorado cuisine, giving travelers a chance to sample game and steakhouse fare associated with the Rocky Mountains without ever leaving the confines of the hotel. It also gave suited business types a place to woo clients, hopeful men a spot to romance stiletto-wearing dates, and Denver's 1 percenters a location to wear their furs.

I dined at Edge for this week's review, feasting on a menu by executive chef Simon Purvis that's influenced by his long-time experience with the Four Seasons hotels, as well as his understanding of local cuisine.

How was it? Find out tomorrow when the review is posted here.

KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk