Empanada Express Grill offers Denver a taste of Venezuela

When I returned to the United States after a stint in South America, I feared I'd be unable to find empanadas, that nearly perfect food that stuffs pastry pockets with savory filling. My quest eventually took me to Empanada Express Grill, at 2600 East Street in Golden, where owner Isabel...

By Laura Shunk

November 2, 2010

Audio By Carbonatix

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When I returned to the United States after a stint in South America, I feared I'd be unable to find empanadas, that nearly perfect food that stuffs pastry pockets with savory filling. My quest eventually took me to Empanada Express Grill, at 2600 East Street in Golden, where owner Isabel Campos proffers empanadas inspired by her home country of Venezuela. I found more than just empanadas at Empanada Express, though, including this platter full of Venezuelan classics. Campos cooks up arepas, of course, a Venezuelan dish more famous than empanadas.

In fact, her menu offers a remarkable look at another culinary world. And were the empanadas worth the trip? Find out when my review is posted here tomorrow, along with more photos.

Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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