Goed Zuur's New Chef Is Relaunching Its Tasting Menu | Westword

Goed Zuur's New Chef Relaunches Its Tasting Menu

Devin Rachles took over for founding chef and co-owner Anthony Lopiccolo in May, and now he's bringing back the eight-person chef's table.
Chef Devin Rachles (left) has taken over for Anthony Lopiccolo at Goed Zuur.
Chef Devin Rachles (left) has taken over for Anthony Lopiccolo at Goed Zuur. Kristin Pazulski
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When Goed Zuur chef and co-owner Anthony Lopiccolo learned that he'd gotten the job as executive chef at Chalkboard Restaurant in California, he knew exactly who should take his place at the sour beer-focused restaurant.

Lopiccolo had started Goed Zuur, at 2801 Welton Street, back in 2017 with co-owner John Fayman, for whom he'd previously worked at Backcountry Pizza and Tap House in Boulder. There the two had experimented with higher-end fare beyond the pizza menu. "It was a work in progress at Backcountry. The food Anthony was putting out was exceptional," says Fayman, but the customers were there mostly for pizza. "They weren't there to eat a caviar cracker paired with a unique beer."

So he and Lopiccolo discussed opening a smaller, more niche restaurant, landing on the sour-beer focus because they were both obsessed with lambics at the time. Since Goed Zuur opened, its menu has taken a few turns — all overseen by Lopiccolo — with interesting meats, cheeses and small plates as staples and occasional larger entrees, as well as the recent addition of a chef's counter.
Restaurant building with old fashioned mural ad
Goed Zuur has been open for six years.
Sarah Cowell
But now Lopiccolo has stepped away and left the beer bar/restaurant in the hands of Devin Rachles, a friend and longtime regular at Goed Zuur who took over as chef in May. "He's always been the right fit," says Lopiccolo, adding that they have the same "somewhat absurd fashion" in the kitchen.

The two had discussed Rachles joining the Goed Zuur team in the past, but it never worked out financially. "Unfortunately, the only way for it to work out was for one of us to move out and one to move in," Lopiccolo adds.

"I know a lot of people are bummed about Anthony leaving," Rachles admits. "No one really knows who I am. ... It's a great privilege and a great pressure."

Rachles honed his cheese knowledge at Whole Foods and worked in the kitchens at ChoLon, Barcelona Wine Bar and Redeemer Pizza. While he's kept the general menu structure at Goed Zuur, it's recently been updated to include shareables, sandwiches, desserts and meat/cheese/butter boards. The Sunday ramen is continuing, and the chef's tasting counter is now under Rachles.
click to enlarge Man holding cheese board
Anthony Lopiccolo left Goed Zuur to work for Chalkboard Restaurant in California.
Kristin Pazulski
His first eight-person chef's table tasting menu was served on June 8. Starting June 15, it will be available for up to eight people at 7 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. For $85, guests will get five courses, with an optional wine and cider or sour beer pairing available for $60.

Rachles knows he has some big shoes to fill, but he's excited to follow the creative culinary path established by Lopiccolo.

Goed Zuur is located at 2801 Welton Street and is open 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. For more information, visit goedzuur.com.
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