There's No Rushin' the Russian Delicacies at Aurora's Masha & the Bear

It's 3 p.m. on a Friday, and the patrons inside Masha & the Bear Russian Cafe, at 12101 East Iliff Avenue in Aurora, are predominantly Eastern European. While many of the Russian customers are huddled around big, beautiful bowls of borscht, Stefanie Brosey was on a mission: to enjoy Ukrainian food that mirrors her Polish grandma's.

"I came here for the golumpkis, or the cabbage meat rolls. They taste like home," Brosey notes.

Her companion, Sean Semple, tried the borscht and the plov, which resembles Russian fried rice. "The beef and carrots and seasonings all mixed with the rice together had a sweetness to it, which was surprising and excellent. So was the borscht, and I usually hate beets," he notes.

Masha & the Bear has made beet-lievers out of a lot of folks since opening six years ago. According to manager Oheksandra Povlenko, half of the eatery's customers are American and half are Eastern European.

Behind it all is owner Halina Yatskevich. "The owner is here every morning at 7 a.m.and cooks all the food. Just her. She does everything. She is the best thing about this restaurant," Povlenko shares.

The Russian proverb "Кто не рискует, тот не пьет шампанского," or "He who doesn't take risks doesn't drink champagne," certainly applies to owner Yatskevich. She left Belarus six years ago and chose to spend her golden years in Denver because "I like mountains," she says. A lifelong accountant, her first job in the Mile High was as a cook at Masha & the Bear; three years later, she purchased the restaurant. It's named after a beloved Russian folk tale about an adventurous girl who has a run-in with a bear.

"I learn English online. My husband helps me in the restaurant. Russian food is very hard to make; it takes time," she explains. While she's quick to point out that her spices are very simple — "a lot of black pepper, onion, garlic, beets; no sugar in the entrees, the beets are sweet" — the flavors are complex.

Customer Logan Scott tried the solyanka soup, which Yatskevich says is a favorite in Ukraine. It contains beef, turkey, sausage, cabbage, olives and pickles. "I like the flavor of the meat, and it's much better with the sour cream," Scott remarks.

Russians recipes call for a lot of dill, which you can find in Helena's okroshka, a cold soup with a heavy, heaping helping of boiled potatoes, eggs, radishes, grass-fed beef and kvass, a non-alcoholic beverage made from fermented black or rye bread. It takes hours to make all the soups.

"We are happy a lot of people love our food. Our customers like new Russian dishes, learning Russian culture. All our art is Russian; that soldier on the horse is hanging in a Russian museum," adds Yatskevich, pointing to one of the many paintings on the walls.

Speaking of the military, conversations over a dinner table often spark talk of politics, and both Semple and Scott had thoughts about the current war.

"Of course I thought about the conflict walking in," Semple admits. "We're representing Ukraine. There's clearly a table of Russians behind us. This conflict isn't about the people. It's about the leadership. They're pushing so much propaganda."

"In reality, no one wins in a war," notes Scott.

Yatskevich is all about bringing the love from Russia, which she pours into her desserts. The blinis are pillowy, tart and sweet, with ample strawberries and blueberries. "I know one Russian word: Da. Da, I'm stuffed," Scott says after finishing off his dessert.

Masha also offers a bevy of beautiful French macarons, but Semple is a fan of the peach cookies. The sgushonka, or sweetened condensed milk, in the middle surprised him. "There's this pop of caramel in the middle I was totally not expecting. So good," he exclaims.

Masha & the Bear Russian Cafe is located at 12101 East Iliff Avenue in Aurora and  is open Tuesday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. For more information, visit mbrussiancafe.com.