OiNKs! BBQ caters to meat-lovers and veggie-eaters alike

When Wolfe's closed in December, it took one of the town's best vegetarian barbecue options with it. But at least there's still barbecued tofu on Colfax Avenue, thanks to OiNKs! BBQ.

There's really only one meat replacement on the OiNKs! menu, the tofu, which you can get in bulk, as a combination platter or on a sandwich (pictured above, with 9-Volt Hot three-pepper blend sauce topping it off). The tofu sandwich can also be ordered with jalapeno cream cheese -- obviously not a choice for vegans, but vegetarians might enjoy that extra snap of spice.

OiNKs! is set up in a typical, fast-casual style: You order at the counter, where you should feel free to share any special dietary needs with the person ringing up your food; staffers were happy to let us know which of their several sides were vegan. Pictured above are the spicy green bean salad and collard greens -- which are not cooked with animal products, a pleasant and unusual surprise. Other veggie sides include the sweet potato fries, fried okra, fresh potato chips, onion rings, nutty coleslaw and potato-parsnip mash -- but beware the bacon-infused sweet potato salad.

You then take a seat at one of the many tables, each thoughtfully adorned with a roll of paper towels (you'll need it, because the food at OiNKs! is deliciously messy). There's also an array of sauces, with a laminated sign explaining what each lid signifies: Kansas City-style, Texas-style, Carolina mustard, vinegar sauce and the aforementioned 9-Volt Hot, which, as advertised, is spicy.

OiNKs! does not smoke its tofu, so it doesn't have a smokey flavor. Instead, the tofu is sauteed in a marinade that crisps the outside a bit while leaving it tender inside, then decorated with your choice of sauce -- either 9-Volt Hot or the Kansas City-style, which is sweeter and not nearly as hot. Either way, that tofu is tasty.

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