Restaurant Reviews

Review: Barolo Grill Has the White (Tablecloth) Stuff

Barolo Grill 3030 East Sixth Avenue 303-393-1040

If there was any doubt about the enduring popularity of Barolo Grill, one of Denver's longest-running white-tablecloth establishments, it was erased one night as I stood in front of the hostess stand, waiting for the hostess to finish a phone call before showing us to our seats. "I'm sorry," she said to the person on the line. "At this point, I couldn't fit in the President of the United States."

Her words caught me off guard, and they might come as a surprise to you, too, if you've been so busy crossing off all the new places on your list that you haven't ventured into Blair Taylor's Cherry Creek North institution in a while. They also might startle all you trend-followers, who've watched the pendulum swing so far away from fine dining that tables themselves, not just the tablecloths that cover them, are increasingly optional when you order a meal.

See also: Review: Barolo Grill Has the White (Tablecloth) Stuff

KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz