Review Preview: El Camino

Swimclub32 was the hippest spot in town when it opened six years ago -- but it was a misfit in its Highland neighborhood. And two years ago, the place got a major overhaul when owner Grant Gingerich traded out the dark, signless concept for a bright Mexican joint. He named...

By Laura Shunk

April 12, 2011

Audio By Carbonatix

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Swimclub32 was the hippest spot in town when it opened six years ago -- but it was a misfit in its Highland neighborhood. And two years ago, the place got a major overhaul when owner Grant Gingerich traded out the dark, signless concept for a bright Mexican joint. He named his new spot El Camino, and planned to welcome patrons with tacos and margaritas, luring back the locals who'd never gotten in the swim at Swimclub.

I'd done plenty of research on El Camino's margaritas, which were good enough to win this year's Best House Margarita in the Best of Denver 2011.

But the food had always been marginal at Swimclub32, so it took me some time to get brave enough to do more than drink at El Camino. Over the last few weeks, though, I returned again and again to test its menu of tacos, tamales and enchiladas, all in an effort to determine whether the kitchen's offerings measured up to the bar's.

Find out how the food fared tomorrow when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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