Eating Adventures

Rico Pollo won't fly on Federal, but San Antonio Mexican Bakery rises above the fray

In A Federal Case, I'll be eating my way up Federal Boulevard - south to north - within Denver city limits. I'll be skipping the national chains and per-scoop Chinese joints, but otherwise I'll report from every vinyl booth, walk-up window and bar stool where food is served. Here's the report on my next stop.... For all the taquerias, pho shops, diners and loncheras that make Federal Boulevard such a rewarding food destination, Rico Pollo has never beckoned me. Chicken just isn't that interesting. Still, I will concede that when chicken is done right, if the skin is crisped or even slightly charred from the oven or grill and the juices mingle just right with the seasonings, it can be a satisfying and inexpensive meal. So that's where I set the bar when I walked in at lunchtime on a sunny Saturday. Cheap and tasty -- how hard can that be?

See also: - Cafe Chihuahua is pregnant with possibilities - Andy's Kitchen Asian Express is worth a risky left on Federal - At Granny Annie, the Southern cuisine is pretty peachy - At 4G's on Federal, the food is not the topic of conversation

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Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.
Contact: Mark Antonation