Stepping into the restaurant, one of many in a Canadian chain of meat temples, is like a trip back to the late 80s or early 90s, with the dark wood, oppressive color scheme and ostentatious paintings of martini glass-holding women in slinky dresses. And the prime rib burger is out of the same era, which is to say an era when prime rib dinners were a popular way to spend an evening out.
Luckily, the burger is timeless. Topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mayonnaise and a slab of cheddar, the toppings didn't exactly break new ground. But the burger itself -- juicy with drippy grease, velvety in texture, seasoned with salt and pepper and the tang of the grill -- was a vast improvement on regular old ground chuck. It was like meat candy, and it satisfied a carnivorous craving I didn't even know I had.
Sure, the Keg is a chain, and it feels a little dated in comparison to everything around it downtown. But that burger gave me a reason to belly up to the restaurant's bar again in the future.
Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.