When you actually want someone to cut the cheese, Rob Lawler, who owns the Truffle with his wife, Karin, does it better than anyone. And Lawler, who took over Denver's stinky (in all the good ways) cheese emporium in early 2007, is particularly fond of one specific cow's-milk cheese from Switzerland: hoch ybrig. "It's just fantastic -- nutty, complex and earthy, with a really long finish," he says. Then again, muses Lawler, "talking about food and cheese is like dancing about architecture. It's all very subjective, but you really just have to try this stuff and experience it for yourself."