Mister Tuna may seem like a silly name, suggestive of a cartoon mascot in a canned-tuna commercial; saying it aloud makes you feel silly. But Mister Tuna — the institution, not the moniker — is nothing to laugh at. Instead, as Gretchen Kurtz writes in her latest review, it's the restaurant that Troy Guard was born to create. All photos by Danielle Lirette.