Twelve Restaurant Closings in Six Months That Reflect Changing Scene
We've had plenty of exciting new openings in the Denver restaurant scene so far this year, but the fierce competition has led to the demise of old favorites and big names, too. The industry is shifting because of skyrocketing food and real estate costs as well as a labor shortage, and restaurateurs need to adapt or go under. Here are twelve of the restaurants to close in the first six months of 2017, in alphabetical order and all reflecting changes in Denver's dining business.
Americatus was completely handmade, from the art and furnishings to the pasta and sausage.
2449 Larimer Street
Chef Iain Chisholm took the DIY credo and turned it into a convivial Italian eatery that put good, inexpensive food ahead of the fluff and fuss of high-end dining. Chisholm and his crew also did something simple but surprisingly hard to nail: They made everything themselves, whether the potato chips next to a lunchtime sandwich, the sausage in a pasta sauce, or the silky ribbons of pasta themselves. Five years isn't a long time, but it's a grind for a restaurant team. So earlier this month Chisholm turned out the lights at Americatus in order to embark on a new kind of grind — a wholesale sausage and artisan foods company that will carry on his restaurant's name and attention to hand-crafted quality.
Baur's closed downtown, making way for a new incarnation of Dazzle.
Baur's Restaurant & Listening Lounge
1512 Curtis Street
Pick a difficult location known for its restaurant turnover (Victory, La Grand Bistro, Baur's Ristorante) and pack in a difficult concept (live jazz and something called "Cordillera cuisine"); there's not much room for error in the narrow space between success and failure in the restaurant world. The food at Baur's was certainly good, if confusing — a little housemade charcuterie here, a board of Monterey Bay-sourced seafood there — and it's impressive that Baur's lasted as long as it did, what with a fickle tourist and business-traveler crowd as its main customer base and growing competition in trendy neighborhoods away from the tired 16th Street Mall. Dazzle Jazz is now making a go of it in the space; perhaps a name and concept familiar to downtown denizens will fare better.
The Blue Parrot closed after nearly 100 years in Louisville.
Westword file photo
The Blue Parrot
640 Main Street, Louisville
The oldest restaurant in the metro area closed in January after the Colacci family decided to call it quits. The Louisville eatery was only two years shy of its 100th birthday, a remarkable achievement in the Rocky Mountain West. But Italian cuisine means something different than spaghetti, meatballs and red sauce to a new generation looking for housemade buratta, salumi and hard-to-find regional Italian dishes. With the loss of the Blue Parrot and other venerable classics, old-school Italian-American cooking is becoming an endangered species along the Front Range.
This was the only sign indicating that a restaurant was operating inside.
2958 Downing Street
If Americatus could be called DIY, the Handy Diner was all but anarchist in its approach to running a restaurant. Denver's counterculture embraced the bare-bones vegan diner that served up cheap, filling, cruelty-free comfort food — at least until city inspectors realized that they had an underground eatery operating in their jurisdiction. We admire Handy Diner's attitude of "never give a bureaucrat a chance to say no," but those bureaucrats were not so impressed and shut the place down in March.
Sunnyside neighbors will have to look elsewhere for fried chicken and weekend bloody Marys.
Lou's Food Bar
1851 West 38th Avenue
Frank Bonanno operates both high-end and casual eateries around town, from the polished Mizuna to the sticky-fingers Russell's Smokehouse, but Lou's in Sunnyside fell somewhere in between. Toward the end it morphed into primarily a chicken joint, and then Bonanno got an offer from a buyer so he sold the whole place. Fans of that chicken need not be despondent, though, since the chef/restaurateur plans to resurrect the bird in the new Dairy Block development downtown as Lou's Hot & Naked later this year.
The doors are locked at the Overland.
1967 South Broadway
The Overland was our favorite new hangout on South Broadway, but only made it a year in a neighborhood that seemed more interested in family-friendly new eateries than a dark watering hole perfect for rounds of drinks late into the night. The closing was as low-key as the bar itself; there was not even a sign on the locked door to let drinkers know to move along after the place shut down earlier this month.
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