Refuel’s breakfast plans foiled by a banned griddle

We’ve been keeping close tabs on Bob Blair’s plans for a second, scaled-down restaurant in the Taxi development since last spring. It finally opened on Monday, in the Drive building across from Fuel, but like the name — which changed from Pit Stop to Refuel — and the opening date…

Tom’s Urban 24: Is this upscale diner ready for prime time?

You might not know the name Tom Ryan, but you’ve probably heard of Smashburger, the fast-casual concept he founded in Denver in 2007. Smashburger has been a smashing success, expanding to 200 locations worldwide in just a few years and nabbing the Forbes title of “most promising company” in America…

Tom’s Urban 24: Is it ready for prime time?

You might not know the name Tom Ryan, but you’ve probably heard of Smashburger, the fast-casual concept he founded in Denver in 2007. Smashburger has been a smashing success, expanding to 200 locations worldwide in just a few years and nabbing the Forbes’ title of “most promising company” in America…

Communal tables: Does anyone actually like them?

Communal tables like the ones at The Populist, which I review this week, are “in,” and from a restaurant’s perspective it’s not hard to see why. A long table accommodates more people than a string of two-tops, and open space between tables doesn’t generate much rent, either. What’s harder to…

Deconstructed duck cubano: Have it your way at the Populist

The idea that “one size fits all” is just plain wrong. From something as simple as clothing (boxy T-shirts) to something as complex as currency (the Euro), there’s no way to please everyone with a middle-of-the-road solution. Coffee shops realized this long ago, allowing us to add our own sugar…

Spice rack: What gives Indian food its flavor?

In this week’s review of Azitra, I write about dishes with names you might not never have heard of, such as kaali mirch ka murg or chicken hariyali lazzatdar. But even if you know your chana from paneer, you still might need help pinpointing the spices that give your favorite…

Spice is nice in Indian food — and so is tradition

The group in the car knew me well, but on that particular night, I had a hard time swapping stories and laughing along. I was distracted, pondering what I’d find when we finally got to Azitra, an Indian restaurant that opened near FlatIron Crossing in 2011. According to the website,…

Come to papas — a perfect Peruvian party food

Bob and Rosario Van Diest take pride in serving a little-known but authentic Peruvian dish, pollo a la brasa, at La Polleria, which I review this week. Here’s another dish they are eager to tell people about: papas a la huancaina (potatoes huancaina style). Often served at parties with baby…

The chicken at La Polleria is a real bird in the hand

Roast-chicken fanatics tout experiencing the bird with bread salad at San Francisco’s Zuni Cafe the way others talk about climbing the Eiffel Tower or bagging a peak. Some buy the restaurant’s cookbook and start on the recipe two days in advance, drying, salting and stuffing herbs under the skin in…