Restaurant Fourteen Seventy-Two: A taste of this week’s review

Being a restaurant reviewer is a lot like being a detective. With each spoonful of soup and every morsel of fish, I’m gathering clues about what’s afoot in the kitchen. Sometimes the mystery lingers, but as I sliced through the seared duck at Restaurant Fourteen Seventy-Two, the low-country restaurant that…

Kachina: A taste of this week’s review

To the Hopi, kachinas are spirit-beings associated with rain, corn, animals and other elements critical to life in the desert. Dolls of the same name are crafted for children — not as toys, but as study tools, a three-dimensional catechism for the spirits they represent. Not that you’d grasp this…

Year in review: Tables and Ace change up their menus

Since my first review appeared in Westword in September — it was of the then-six-month-old Kitchen Denver — I’ve reviewed sixteen spots. And already, some of those spots are changing — menus, if not more. See also: – Attention to detail would safeguard the Kitchen’s brand in Denver – The…

Year in Review: Red Star Deli lost its star chef

This week’s Westword has no fresh restaurant review, since the issue is devoted to a look back at 2012 — the big stories, the small triumphs — as well as predictions of culinary trends to watch for in the new year. I’ve reviewed sixteen spots since I joined the Cafe…

Ace mixologist Randy Layman serves up a holiday drink at Ace

At Ace, Randy Layman knows how to serve drinks…and ping pong.Whether it’s a night at the Nutcracker, a performance of Handel’s Messiah, or old-time caroling with friends, we all have our favorite holiday traditions. For Randy Layman, bartender at Ace, which I review this week, Christmas Eve wouldn’t be the…

Ace scores with action, drinks and decor; food is a tie game

Cheers erupt from the back table. A thirty-something, slightly sweaty in dark jeans and collared shirt, pumps his fist, Tiger-style, celebrating a zinger that caught the corner and kept on going. High-fives are given, drinks are spilled — but in the rush of victory, no one cares, just as no…

Ace: A taste of this week’s review

Cheers erupt from the back table. A thirty-something, slightly sweaty in dark jeans and collared shirt, pumps his fist, Tiger-style, celebrating a zinger that caught the corner and kept on going. High-fives are given, drinks are spilled — but in the rush of victory, no one cares, just as no…

Where to eat, drink and keep your guests merry this holiday season

With out-of-town guests beginning to trickle in for the holidays, it’s a relief to know you won’t have to house, feed and entertain them all by yourself. Well, make that “yes” on house, but with restaurants that double as entertainment zones, there’s plenty of help in the other two areas…

Central Bistro & Bar: A taste of this week’s review

Interior designers are paid to think about color, and for good reason. Whether on walls, fabrics or furniture, colors impact how we feel and act, often without our knowing it. Yellow, the color of sunshine, makes people happy, whereas red, the color of stop signs and Xs on school papers,…

Nutella waffle at Central Bistro is a spin-off of Bananas Foster

Paris isn’t widely associated with street food, but some of my favorite food moments in France happened not in restaurants or bistros but at crepe stands. One crepe cart would set up outside the Odeon movie theater near my apartment; I preferred him over all the others because rather than…

What defines a “neighborhood” restaurant in Denver these days?

Chefs toss around a lot of confusing terms: sous-vide, brown braise, macerate, sweat (when it comes to onions, at least), etc. But when it comes to describing restaurants, here’s a word we all understand: neighborhood. Or do we? Neighborhood restaurants used to be places that attracted us as much for…

Pie, the food trend of 2011, is still hot at these Denver spots

Pies used to be seen as the either the coup de grace on Thanksgiving or snarky protesters’ tool of choice. (Remember when Ann Coulter, Ralph Nader and Jeff Skilling, former president of Enron, were all pied?) Then in 2011 the lattice-topped treat hit the big time, and Nation’s Restaurant News…

So Perfect Eats: a taste of this week’s review

I can hear the noise already, a rising roar of complaint over my decision to spend a thousand-plus words on So Perfect Eats, a two-year-old eatery in Cherry Creek North that feels more like a grab-and-go lunch spot than a restaurant worthy of review. But before you rant — whether…