Red Trolley stays on track…even with hot dogs

Summer came again. Heat and ice cream weather. I showed up at the place for the salted caramel ice cream with its thick layer of chocolate; for honey graham that was so good I wanted to be able to pick it up at the grocery store or have it delivered…

Gelazzi goes dark in Larimer Square

Bad news for gelato lovers: I saw this sign while wandering around Larimer Square this weekend. And while not all Gelazzi locations are gone, the Larimer Square address is definitely dark. It seems like Paul, at the least, is going to be very disappointed by this new black hole in…

100 Favorite Dishes: Deviled eggs from Steuben’s

As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to cafe@westword.com. Number 88: Deviled eggs from Steuben’s I can still remember when the first draft of the first Steuben’s menu…

Ask the Critic: No reservations

One of the great things about living, eating and working in this city has always been that there are virtually no restaurants in the entire city that can’t take me as a walk-in any time I feel like putting on the feedbag. Sure, there are exceptions. Friday and Saturday nights…

Corner Office gets some new blood

Just got off the phone with manager Michael Torres of the Corner Office, talking about the new man behind the burners at that most Mad Men-y of restaurants at the Curtis. Carlos Ruiz (most recently ex of the Stanley Hotel in Estes Park, making him well-versed in both hotel cookery…

The List: Top ten pubs with good grub

Argyll might have saddled itself with the horrible label “gastropub,” but by any name, Robert Thompson’s new place is a pretty sweet bar, with seriously great food. But while the menu at Argyll, which I review here, is more ambitious than what you find in most pubs, there are many…

Lovely Confections hits the big time (sorta)

Leave it to those trend sniffers at the New York Times to jump on a fad that had already begun to get stale a year ago and now declare it the next big thing. Leave it to the NYT to somehow insult every city that isn’t New York or L.A…

The good times keep rolling at Lucile’s

There are two things they do real well in New Orleans: drink and eat. New York might be a great town for chefs; San Francisco might be a Garden of Eden for foodies. But New Orleans is a town made for eaters — men and women for whom dinner isn’t…

After my first bite at Argyll, I was ready to eat my words

It worried me that Argyll, the new restaurant from Robert Thompson, called itself a “gastropub,” a word I hate with a rare and white-hot passion that only a true word geek can muster for the hating of a bunch of letters. It worried me that the very first word on…

Guess where I’m eating?

You want to talk about bad food photography? This is bad food photography — mostly because there’s just no good way to make a lump of meat and cheese like this look tasty until someone invents Smell-O-Vision or scratch-and-sniff websites. Still, buried in the middle of this photographic nightmare are…

Argyll’s Sergio Romero, under the lights

Before I ever ate at Argyll, I was worried about the place. I worried about the space that Argyll occupies (the ex-Squealing Pig location in Cherry Creek) and the guy running the show (Robert Thompson, ex of Brasserie Rouge). I worried that it was calling itself a gastropub, a word…

Steuben’s going mobile

After I chatted yesterday with Josh Wolkon of Steuben’s and Vesta, he kindly forwarded me an article from the travel section of the Los Angeles Times about the sudden, fierce boom in food trucks that has gripped the foodie Shangri La of Portland. That city now has about 400 trucks,…

Argyll goes gastropubbin’

It worried me that Argyll is located in a subterranean address in Cherry Creek — which seems to almost always doom any restaurant to a slow, lingering death. It worried me that this particular subterranean address used to be the home of the Squealing Pig: a terrible excuse for an…

Ask The Critic: What’s on your bookshelf?

I tore through Jonathan Safran Foer’s book, Eating Animals, and then sat back and watched the weak-willed and easily influenced suddenly declare their vegetarian sovereignty with a blood-streaked smile on my face and a bloody rare cheeseburger in my hand. Novella Carpenter’s Farm City was one of the best food…

Mark & Isabella bites the dust

The phone kicks callers over to a cheery-voiced hostess talking about the hours of operation and the happy-hour specials, but take a cruise by the website and the news is very plain, typed out in black against a plain background. “mark & isabella has closed its doors” That’s all there…

Update: Ondo’s opens today

That picture there? That’s what Ondo’s looked like a few weeks ago. The space at 250 Steele Street was still coming together, and even as recently as last week, there was no set menu because no one on staff had actually been able to get into the kitchen to cook…

Lobster in lobster sauce

I have sworn for a long time that I would never include recipes in this blog. I have raised a (completely ineffectual) stink over the notion of other people including recipes. I have my reasons — the biggest of which being that I neither like nor trust recipes not written…

Barbecue: It’s what’s for breakfast at Cabin Creek

Colorado has recently gone through something of a barbecue boom. Sure, there are places like M&D’s that have been around since forever, but over the past five years, Colorado in general (and Denver in particular) has seen a surge in joints that exist for the greater worship of the smoker…

Update: Ondo’s sets a new opening date

Just got off the blower with Curt Steinbecker (that’s him in the funny hat up there, standing beside his wife, Deicy) of Ondo’s, the Spanish tapas restaurant that I’ve been waiting forever for at 250 Steele Street (in the former home of French 250). Okay, so maybe it hasn’t quite…