A couple of eggs, a bit of cheese, one fistful of cubed ham and another of soggy green-pepper-and-onion mix out of the galley cold table. It’s a strange thing to be famous for, but culinarily, the Denver omelette is about all we’ve got. For years, decades even, this simple mix…
North comes to Cherry Creek North (190 Clayton Lane, to be precise) this week, brought to us by the folks at Bloom at FlatIron Crossing (already part of a three-restaurant mini-chain out of Tucson), in a space where executive chef Christopher Christiano and the owners can extend their reach beyond…
It was the smell of the place that got me. That warm, salty, enveloping, fried-pork-and-soy-sauce smell that spun through the small, squared-off dining room like a fog, like smells do in the old Bugs Bunny cartoons — turning into fingers and tickling the duck or bear or whatever right under…
From the moment it opened last year, Moda Ristorante & Lounge seemed lovely, friendly, oh-so-well situated…and doomed. Although the restaurant was holding up the corner of the chic Beauvallon complex at Tenth Avenue and Lincoln Street, my meals there always landed smack in the middle of Dullsville. I never reviewed…
Swimclub 32 reminds me of this girl, Meghan, who was everything a (much) younger me could hope for in a girlfriend. She was gorgeous in an uncomplicated way, a bit ethnic, well-traveled, pretty in the face, with that face attached to a killer body and that body held up by…
5:55 a.m.: 7600 Broadway They say the neon lights are bright on Broadway…but right before dawn, on the hillside where Broadway begins, the only lights are a hint of orange and pink on the horizon to the east, the beacons of a convenience store a few blocks down the two-lane…
I feel like I just got rid of the weight I packed on during last year’s Best of Denver exertions, and here we are again. The credit card is warmed up, I have my gastronomic Baker Street Irregulars on speed-dial, and I’m wearing my heavy-duty fat pants. Paramedics are standing…
Life so rarely lives up to your expectations. The Big Three — prom night, losing your virginity and your wedding day (which, in this ever-accelerating culture, can all happen in one 24-hour period if you really try hard) — have become so built up in the modern mind, so fraught…
There’s been rejoicing in the Westword hood this week over the news that the Minturn Saloon will reopen on February 17 in the storied space at 846 Broadway (just a block from this office) that had previously been home to the original Parlour restaurant, Basil Ristorante and the Parlour, version…
I tacked the thayir sadam onto my order at the last second, no doubt hopelessly bungling the pronunciation as I tend to when I’m trying to be cool about something on a menu I’ve never seen before and don’t know whether I’m asking for rice pudding or the cook’s underpants…
I spent quite a bit of time on the blower last week with Greg Goldfogel from Ristorante Amore (see review), and although a good portion of our conversations centered on gnocchi, that wasn’t all we talked about. We discussed Amore’s expansion, which was in progress just on the other side…
Greg Goldfogel, owner of Ristorante Amore, was on the phone, and we were talking about gnocchi. We were talking a lot about gnocchi, which might surprise someone not steeped to the neck in the lore and weird obsessions of the kitchen. Because, really, how much is there to say about…
There’s this nugget of dubious wisdom espoused by a certain breed of foodies that holds that if it weren’t for the French (with Saint Julia as their envoy), the vast majority of Americans would still be eating canned corn, sliced ham steaks topped with pineapple rings and Dolly Madison fruit…
Americans like to take credit for things — but culinarily, we’re screwed. Almost everything we eat, good or bad, comes from somewhere else. What’s worse, most of the great things we eat come from the Europeans (the French, in particular) and we’d much rather blame the Europeans (and the French,…
Think you’ve got the worst service job in the world? Think again, my friend. In anticipation of the National Western Stock Show, which kicked off January 8 and runs through January 28, local Village Inn employees were given orders to wear plastic sheriff stars on their uniforms, bandannas around their…
One of the great things about living in Colorado is that no man, woman or child ever has to go to bed worrying about where to find good Mexican food. Nuclear terrorism, alien abduction, how the Broncos are going to fare in the playoffs — sure, those are real concerns…
Last Labor Day weekend, after spending several hours wandering around in the sun eating lukewarm shrimp cocktails and cheesecake on a stick at the Taste of Colorado, I stopped by Somethin’ Else, the place that Sean Kelly was putting into the very same spot where his last restaurant, Clair de…
This time last year, I was taking complaint calls about my review of Max Burgerworks, which had opened a few months before at the corner of 15th and Lawrence streets. Because the principals involved in its founding were Greg Waldbaum and Gerard Rudofsky from Zaidy’s, Denver’s preeminent Jewish deli, Max’s…
Thanksgiving is a distant memory, Christmas is done, and the holiday season — in all its shlocky glitz and sweetness — is nearly over. All that’s left to do is bid a final farewell to the year gone by, to turn our backs on the little victories and larger defeats…
Hey, fat man. You’ve got some explaining to do. I was just looking over last year’s letter to you, and I realized that I got nothing I asked for. Zip. Zilch. Not one Christmas wish fulfilled, not one humble request granted. What’s that all about? It’s not like I was…
When I was young, Christmas in the Sheehan household was a fairly predictable event. It began about 4 a.m., or whatever godawful hour my brother Brendan and I would drag our parents out of bed for our annual living-room reenactment of the battle of Thermopylae, with Mom and Dad playing…
After chef Ian Kleinman left Go Fish Grille (see review), he returned to Golden, where he’s thrown in with Michael Chen, owner of the Hilltop Bistro, a new restaurant that opened mid-November in an old house at 1518 Washington Avenue that was once home to the Hilltop Cafe — where…
