Summit of the Ate

We were headed into the ladies’ room when my six-year-old suddenly backed away from the door with a surprised look on her face. “We can’t go in there,” she said, pulling the door shut. “Why?” I asked. “Isn’t that the bathroom?” She nodded. “But there’s someone taking a bath in…

French Twist

What’s in a name: Okay, the pathetic, prejudiced people who wouldn’t know a glace de viande if it bit them on their turned-up noses can stop sending complaints about Tante Louise (4900 East Colfax Avenue) that make the ludicrous charge that the decades-old restaurant is no longer truly French. “I…

We Came, We Sauce…

The next time you see a grown man walking down the street dressed in a black T-shirt, black tuxedo jacket, black shorts and spotless white sneakers (no socks) carrying a bottle of Heinz 57, you’ll know why. It’s the legendary Barry Fey, former concert promoter, current racehorse owner and always…

Check, Please!

Q: I recently moved to Castle Rock and wonder which local restaurants you can recommend. A: There are three restaurants I like in the shadow of the big rock. The Old Stone Church (210 3rd Street, 303-688-9000), in a decommissioned church, is a great choice for an à la carte…

The Bite

Med alert! D Diamond is fighting for the life of her four-year-old restaurant, Ilios (1201 Broadway). The owner/manager of this Mediterranean eatery has seen trouble before — first, she had to wrest the place from her ex-husband, Bobby Rifkin, and not long after that, she lost her chef, Sean Brasel,…

An Explosion of Flavors

It’s just before 5 p.m., but already cars have been sitting out front for nearly half an hour. In the storefront window, the chefs are clearly visible, rolling and kneading, peeling and chopping, stirring and frying. But those who’ve been watching the cooking show while they’ve waited have also been…

Food Fight

Beef. It’s what the West University neighborhood doesn’t want for dinner right next to their homes in the now-empty lot at the corner of South Franklin Street and Evans Avenue. The space, which had been a gas station for 44 years, was leased in the fall by the Galardi Company,…

Check, Please!

Q: Any suggestion for a hip, fun, moderately priced restaurant, preferably in LoDo, where I can take some out-of-town girlfriends? A: Amaze those girlfriends with the groovy, happenin’ Vesta Dipping Grill (1822 Blake Street, 303-296-1970). The snazzy, wraparound booths are perfect places to dish and dine. The innovative menu items…

The Bite

The end of an era: While Denver continues to net new sushi restaurants (see review, above), the area’s roster of Vietnamese restaurants has just decreased by one — and a big one. T-Wa Inn (555 South Federal Boulevard), Denver’s first Vietnamese restaurant and the place where many local diners were…

Love at First Bite

Trying new restaurants is a lot like dating: Appearances can be very deceiving, you waste way too many nights on losers, and no matter how bad the experience, somebody still has to pick up the tab. But then you stumble upon Osaka Sushi, and suddenly all those bad dinner dates…

Check, Please!

Q: Is there a Web site where I can buy berbere? A: The essential spice blend for Ethiopian cooking, berbere involves garlic, red pepper, fenugreek, coriander and cardamom in varying amounts, depending on the creator. But because of confusing and annoying trade-regulation problems in Ethiopia, several Ethiopian sites, including my…

The Bite

Boeing’s new headquarters may be decided by a food fight. “We’ve got chalupas. We’ve got tacos. We don’t need no stinkin’ mountains,” Ron Kirk, mayor of Dallas, boasted last week. So what did Denver do to battle the evil forces of chalupas and tacos (not to mention the Chicago-style hotdogs…

Good Things Come in Mall Packages

Gag me with a spoon. According to the International Council of Shopping Centers — yes, there is such a thing — 190 million adults, or about 94 percent of the eighteen-and-over population, visit shopping malls every month. Since 1967, the number of shopping centers — including hundreds of “super-regional centers,”…

Check, Please!

Q: I am looking for late-night, diner-type food in the Boulder area — something more like McCoys on Federal and less like Denny’s. Any ideas? A: You have a better chance of finding a Boulder restaurant that allows smoking than you do of discovering a cool, all-night diner. The Boulder…

The Bite

When you think of wine festivals in Colorado, Aspen and Vail usually come to mind: The grape-celebrating events in those towns have been around so long and have become so popular that Aspen’s Food & Wine Festival looks like spring break in Florida (well, it would if people wore their…

Unsuspected Depths

On the surface, Micole has the makings of one pretentious piffle of a restaurant. To wit, a prix fixe menu in a town that expects its Bud and bowl of green to come with free chips and salsa; dishes that involve such precious ingredients as “fennel pollen,” 25-year-old balsamic and…

Check, Please!

Q: In Paris, I had chestnut ice cream a couple of times for dessert. It was fabulous, and I’ve been trying to find it here. Are there any local restaurants that serve chestnut ice cream? If not, do you know where I can find chestnut paste to make my own?…

The Bite

A guy from the neighborhood recently walked into St. Killian’s Cheese Shop, at 3211 Lowell Boulevard, and set a two-liter bottle of Mountain Dew down on the counter. “What kind of cheese would go with this?” he asked, somewhat sheepishly. Ionah de Freitas didn’t bat an eye. “Brin d’Amour,” she…

Say Cheese

When the U.S. Department of Agriculture gives in and recognizes cheese, bread, chocolate and wine as the four major food-pyramid groups, I’ll start breathing a little easier about my diet. And Swiss restaurateurs in this country might breathe a sigh of relief, too, because those four foods are intrinsic to…

Check, Please!

Q: Can you tell me where the best German food is in the Denver area? A: This is an easy one, because there are only a few local restaurants that bill themselves as German. The best is Café Berlin (2005 East 17th Avenue, 303-377-5896), a cozy space that serves excellent…

The Bite

John Hickenlooper’s next project: overseeing the hot-dog concession at Invesco Field at Mile High. Just kidding! As if Hickenlooper doesn’t have enough on his plate — what with the Wynkoop Brewing Company (1634 18th Street), and the Goosetown Tavern (3242 East Colfax Avenue), and the Wazee Supper Club (1600 15th…

The Din Crowd

It’s a good thing that it’s the nose and not the ears that are connected to your sense of taste — otherwise, you’d be unable to discern a single flavor at Campo de Fiori. The buzz started even before the restaurant opened three months ago. Elizabeth and Luigi Giordani founded…