Denver spots I’ll miss the most

Three and a half years ago, I moved to Denver because I wanted to work in restaurants. This city’s restaurant scene, I reasoned, was growing. It would afford opportunities to dig in and help build something, and when the city inevitably rose to culinary greatness, I could proudly say I…

Denver’s five best expense-account restaurants

On the rare occasion when someone else is footing the bill for dinner, it’s understandably tempting to choose a restaurant where you can ring up a big tab. But an expense-account dinner shouldn’t be just an excuse to drop a bunch of Benjamins on a flashy place — you should…

Fruition continues to set the course for Denver dining

My last week in Denver was not really my last, since I have friends and family here who will draw me back to the Mile High City. But after three years of living off the local restaurant scene — first waiting tables and then writing about food — eating in…

Denver’s five best non-Jewish delis

Delis are the ideal spot for a quick lunch: An efficient crew assembles sandwiches, salads and sides for those who have only a few minutes to grab a meal, wrapping everything in butcher paper or plastic and handing over a portable package. But while Denver delis are usually quick, they’re…

The wurst is the best at Karl’s Deli in Centennial

It was once perfectly acceptable to have a three-martini lunch in this country, but that practice has gone the way of fax machines and napping under your desk after a long, liquid lunch. Not every culture is so prudish, though: The Italians and French still like wine at their mid-day…

Denver’s five best historic watering holes

While Denver’s getting better and better at disguising the fact that it was once a cowtown with all the trappings of the Wild West, there are still a few holdover spots that provide a window into this state’s rough-and-tumble history. Here, in no particular order, are our five favorite spots…

Atmosphere goes a long way at the Gold Hill Inn

My mom has only commanded a classroom since I was a teenager, but she’s always been a teacher at heart, and when I was a kid growing up in the southern suburbs of Denver, she’d devise elaborate lessons for my brother and me to carry out over summer break, packing…

The Gold Hill Inn offers a taste of Colorado’s history

Colorado has a rich (no pun intended) mining history, and when I was a kid growing up in the southern suburbs of Denver, my mom would devise elaborate lessons for my brother and me to carry out over summer break, packing us into the minivan for day or weekend trips…

TD’s Dogs dries up downtown

Todd Regan took over the old Marrakesh address on Blake Street last year and quickly drew up plans to instill TD’s Dogs, a bar-focused hot dog and hamburger joint with a California theme…

Photos: Ambria, the subject of this week’s review

This week’s review took me to Ambria, the restaurant that opened on the 16th Street Mall last November and where, a few months ago, I had a near-perfect meal when the kitchen was under the control of Jeremy Kittelson. Shortly after that dinner, though, Kittelson was fired and Gabe Balenzuela…

Ambria’s kitchen is ahead of its service

On a snowy February night, I ate one of the best meals I’d had in a long time at Ambria. I’d been excited to try this spot, which Steve Halliday opened last November in the former Ling & Louie’s in the Tabor Center; he’d brought in chef Jeremy Kittelson to…

Charlie’s Ice Cream Social opens today

Just in time for a long, sunny weekend, Denver’s about to get another ice cream parlor: Charlie’s Ice Cream Social, a ’30s and ’40s-themed soft-serve spot, will throw open its doors today, offering frozen treats to the Berkeley neighborhood…

Photos: Gabrielle Hamilton at Frasca Food & Wine

Gabrielle Hamilton has been on top of the culinary world for the past couple of years. In 2011, she landed a James Beard Award for Best Chef in New York City for her simple fare at Prune, besting April Bloomfield, Wylie Dufresne, Michael Anthony and Michael White and quipping, charmingly,…