Kyle Mendenhall on Salanova Roots, Open Creativity and Arcana

Kyle Mendenhall spent nearly a decade helming the burners at the Kitchen, expanding the restaurant’s farm-to-table mission from one dining room in Boulder to cities across the country. “And then that came to an end,” he says, which sent the chef into an abrupt spiral of self-reflection. He decided to…

Bootleg Creamery Brings Boozy Ice Cream Into Liquor Stores

Rohit Mukherjee owns a couple of local liquor stores, and late last year, he began thinking about a boozy gap in the market; namely, there was no brand of alcoholic ice cream available on liquor store shelves. “I’d seen the idea done in a shopfront…but we wanted people to be…

100 Favorite Dishes: Masa Dumplings at Arcana

No. 6: Masa Dumplings at Arcana The inspiration for Arcana’s masa dumplings, explains chef Kyle Mendenhall, comes partly from gnocchi, partly from tamales and partly from the fact that the kitchen can procure house-ground masa from neighboring restaurant T/ACO. Taste the dish, and that’ll all make sense: The masa forms…

100 Favorite Dishes: Laksa at Jaya Asian Grill

No. 8: Singapore Curry Laksa at Jaya Asian Grill Singapore’s hawker markets teem with hungry patrons who line up for a little satay, chili crab or samosa. Just about every center hosts at least one laksa stall, where an owner ladles spicy coconut milk-based broth pooled with chile oil over…

The Ten Best Korean Restaurants in Denver

Seoul, South Korea is one of the best eating cities in the world: Women hawk spicy rice cakes from teeming market stalls, tiny parlors put out tasty fried dumplings at breath-taking speed, and restaurants are often laser-focused on serving a perfect version of just one or two dishes, be that…

Korean Barbecue Parlor Shin Myung Gwan Replaces Sae Jong Kwan

Sae Jong Kwan was a mainstay of Korean barbecue in Aurora for more than a decade; when Jason Sheehan first reviewed it ten years ago, he remarked on its bright vibrancy and its crowds, and loved especially the restaurant’s oxtail soup. By the time I got to it four years…

100 Favorite Dishes: The Tallow Candle at Il Posto

No. 12: Tallow Candle at Il Posto Here’s a fun thing to do next time you’re at Il Posto: Order the tallow candle, and once it’s delivered, watch as tables around you follow suit. What looks like a table centerpiece melts down slowly, forming an edible pool of seasoned beef…

Quality Italian Parts Ways With Opening Executive Chef Franz Hueber

Less than two weeks into its run at the Halcyon Hotel in Cherry Creek North, Quality Italian has parted ways with executive chef Franz Hueber. Before moving to Colorado, Hueber cooked in several storied New York kitchens, beginning with a stint at the prolific Sullivan Street Bakery and continuing through…

Hong Lee on Izakaya Culture, Rare Fish and Mizu

When Hong Lee first contemplated bringing a Japanese restaurant to Lower Highland, he envisioned a fine-dining concept — but he soon realized that white tablecloths weren’t quite the right vibe. “I picked this neighborhood and changed my concept,” he says. The result? Mizu Izakaya.

Jeffrey Wall on Whittled Potatoes, Gold Standards and Hearth & Dram

Jeffrey Wall was looking for a reason to come to Denver when the executive-chef position at Hearth & Dram popped up on his computer screen. It was a perfect match: The restaurant’s concept called for an ambitious whiskey collection, one he could match with a menu piled high with charcuterie, wood-fired proteins and unusual vegetables, as well as whole-beast feasts. We sat down with Wall to chat about whittling potatoes, why it pays to put in time as a line cook, and why French chef Alain Passard’s life is the gold standard for a chef.

Toni Tipton-Martin on African-American Cooking, Patriarchy and The Jemima Code

Toni Tipton-Martin’s James Beard Award-winning book The Jemima Code (University of Texas Press, 2015) examines 150 cookbooks written by black women, starting in 1827. She’ll be speaking about her work at the Community College of Aurora on Wednesday, February 22; in advance of that appearance, she sat down with us to talk about the question that prompted her project, the bro-izing of the modern kitchen, and why it’s important that we broaden the definition of African-American cooking.

Brian Rossi of Adelitas Talks Tequila, Mezcal, Palenque…and Ice Cream!

Tending bar first tickled Brian Rossi’s interest in tequila, but a trip to Mexico — and then several trips after that — fueled a raging passion for all booze distilled from agave plants. Four years ago, Rossi opened Adelitas Cocina y Cantina to share that passion with the Mile High City, establishing a haven where adventurous drinkers could learn more about mezcal, tequila and other agave spirits. And last year he unveiled Palenque, his homage to Oaxacan mezcalerias, behind Adelitas on South Broadway. What’s next? Ice cream!

Caroline Glover on Group Therapy for Chefs, Sustainability and Annette

Caroline Glover just opened Annette, a snug restaurant in the Stanley Marketplace, where she hopes to give diners a taste of what she likes feeding people in her own home. Annette is a very personal project for Glover, and to pull it off, she’s drawing on lessons learned at New York City’s Spotted Pig, Acorn in Denver, and various American farms. In the run-up to the opening, we caught up with the young chef to talk about the lessons she learned from farming, why opening a marketplace restaurant is like going to group therapy, and why chefs must continue to pursue sustainable sourcing, even if the novelty of phrases like “farm to table” has worn off.