Block Party

In the Bonnie Brae neighborhood, the more some things change, the more others stay the same. When Carl and Sue Dire opened the Bonnie Brae Tavern in 1934, South University Boulevard was a dirt road running through the sticks. That year, tens of thousands of people left the Dust Bowl…

Star Struck

The Leonid meteor shower shows itself every year in mid-November, and while the display is spectacular only every 33 years or so, even on an off night, the Leonids provide an eye-opening experience. They give us a glimmer of what’s beyond our limited understanding, some insight into life’s eternal glories…

A Little Slice of Heaven

There isn’t a foodie in the world who’d deny his appreciation of truffles or foie gras, caviar, Swiss chocolate or triple-cream cheese. But none of those delights begins to approximate the glory of the drippy, cheese-covered, orange-tinted triangle that is The Slice. Like a bazillion other students, I lived on…

French Kiss

Aix not only marks the spot for a marvelous meal in this city, it hits the spot, dead-on, for local foodies longing for the sort of Provençal dishes that put the South of France on the culinary map. Naming a restaurant after Aix-en-Provence, considered by many to be the heart…

Oy Vey!

When it comes to kosher food, I’m the goy next door. I live in the largest Orthodox Jewish neighborhood in town, within walking distance of four temples and the only King Soopers in Colorado that regularly offers kosher baked goods. My neighbors’ biggest complaint with Denver’s dining scene is the…

2nd Helping

This time around, Panzano is the real deal. When I first reviewed the snazzy spot on the ground floor of the then-new Hotel Monaco (“Bread Alert,” July 1, 1999), the lacquered focaccia in the window was a good indication of just how authentic and interesting the Italian fare inside would…

Ranch Dressing

We felt like we’d stumbled into the pages of Charlotte’s Web. In one pen, a donkey slowly and thoughtfully chewed his hay. In another, a pig scratched his butt against the fence, stopping only to take a whiz. Goats fell all over each other trying to get at the food…

Consumed

Some of the best days of my childhood started with pancakes. If I stumbled out of bed to the clang and clatter of Mom mixing batter in the kitchen, I knew she had a rare day off. I knew she’d be spending time at home, with me. And I knew…

God Bless America

Forget Cipro. Right now, a shortage of mashed potatoes has far more potential to do Denver in. Not that we should start petitioning the government to remove the patent on Yukon golds just yet. But at the rate that we’re consuming comfort foods, Betty Crocker needs to watch her back…

To Havana and Have Not

I discovered Cuban food on the streets of Miami a dozen or so years ago when I lived in Naples, two hours’ drive across Alligator Alley. The first time I wandered through Little Havana, I felt as though I’d been transported to another country: English as a second language, sidewalk…

Steer Clear

Restaurants that don’t change with the times — and tastes — can find themselves washed up. After seven years, Coos Bay Bistro is long overdue for a course correction. Brett Davy opened the restaurant in 1994, taking over a small space that had been home to a neighborhood Italian joint…

Raw Passions

Our order read like the trailer for a porn video. Some foreplay, please, and 69 would be great. We definitely wanted a multiple orgasm (who wouldn’t?), and the rock ‘n’ roll and magic mushrooms, too. And could we finish that off with a climax? If your average porn flick doesn’t…

Passage to Adventure

Sucking the meat out of a shrimp’s head may be as close to exotic adventure as we’re going to get in the near future. So there’s no time like the present to visit Singapore Grill — and be transported to Malaysia. Malaysian cuisine is a variation on the foods of…

Sweet Dreams

At the end of a yoga session, participants often stand with their hands placed together as if in prayer, bow to the instructor and say, “Namasté” — Sanskrit for “I bow to the divine in you.” The word, which is also a traditional Nepalese greeting, carries both respect and gratitude,…

Cottage Industry

It’s not easy to find a restaurant with character in the chain-linked suburbs, much less a spot as charming as Sage Southwestern Grill. Sage occupies a cottage that was formerly the home of Geppetto’s, an Italian eatery that was also quite charming. But when Rich and Cheryl Brown took over…

Disoriented

The lobster was just sitting there, taunting me. I’d ordered it some time ago, before we’d munched through a few appetizers, and now my friend was halfway through his entree. From my seat in the dining room, I could see my lobster waiting on the edge of the server’s station,…

Reddy When You Are

Admittedly, Luigi’s Bent Noodle will never win awards for its ceci con la tempia di maiale del girono dei Morti — in fact, it doesn’t even serve the dish. But then, folks in Littleton and Aurora, where the two Luigi’s are located, aren’t really the type to go for pig’s…

Things Are Looking Up

Upscale Mexican food? Denver diners think they’ve been there, done that. “I shouldn’t have to pay $20 for rice and beans,” we whine, even as we shell out the same amount for upscale noodles and tomatoes. “We already have plenty of Mexican restaurants here,” we claim, then rush to try…

Charm School

Next to the word “charming” in the dictionary, there should be a picture of Pesce Fresco. Everything about this bistro-style wine bar — from the small but well-chosen menu of contemporary dishes to the warm, comfy dining room to the large and well-chosen wine list — appeals to the senses…

Still on Top

The Fourth Story opened to raves in March 1995 — but its kitchen must have come equipped with a revolving door. Original chef Terri Rippeto left after just three months to open Potager; her replacement, Steve Jaeckel, couldn’t cut the mustard. Jess Roybal took this eatery that sits atop the…

Big Fish, Small Pond

Denny Kang thinks that size matters. “I don’t know why people in this area are so stingy with their fish,” says Kang, the owner of Fujiyama Grill & Sushi. “The pieces are much smaller here than you would get at a sushi bar in Japan, and they cost much more…

Green Streets

What color is green chile supposed to be? In the average Mexican restaurant in Denver, the answer would seem to be reddish or orange, maybe even an orange-greenish hue tending toward gray. Some bowls of green chile contain enough jalapeños to speckle them a vivid emerald, no matter the base…