Back on the Chain Gang

Bad guys can be rehabilitated. When I first visited Alcatraz Brewing Co. in what was then known as the Park Meadows “retail resort” (“Behind Bars,” September 9, 1997), the food and service screwups were almost criminal. The prison-themed eatery, which is owned by the same company as the California Cafe…

Wasting Away in Margaritaville

The waiter stood there expectantly, his pen hovering over the order pad as he waited for the woman to tell him what she wanted for dinner. All of a sudden, a noise that sounded like victory music from a kids’ video game rang through the dining room, and the woman…

Mouthing Off

Wine and dine: If an event like the International Pinot Noir Conference makes it sound as though these things are getting a little too specialized, well, it could be worse. At least I didn’t have to go to the International Pickle Fest in Atkins, Arkansas, last month. Instead, I found…

The Real Relleno

The smiling man in the photograph on the wall at the Brewery Bar II is one George Goldberg, and the reason he’s smiling is that on January 7, 1994, he ate thirteen bowls of the local green chile for lunch. That amounts to five quarts of this time-honored saloon’s fiery,…

For Pete’s Sake

When Pete Petrides Jr. was growing up, Denver’s dining scene was better than television. “I would go over to my dad’s restaurant and just sit and watch people, listen to their stories,” Petrides says. “This was back in the Sixties, and Colfax Avenue was a different sort of entertaining.” At…

Mouthing Off

Goin’ to the Roadhouse: There’s no drink at Spanky’s Roadhouse (1800 East Evans Avenue) called the “Spanky Swank Me,” but the fifteen-year-old perennial DU hangout still serves one of the best milkshakes ($3.25) in town–Oreo fans will appreciate the cookie version–along with a great burger and the excellent bonus of…

A Family Affair

NoNo’s Cafe just celebrated its third birthday, and although the restaurant is growing up, it hasn’t grown away from its family-friendly roots. From the start, despite its location in a strip mall, owners Brian and Sonda Brewster wanted to make their cute little eatery feel like a home, complete with…

No Soft Sell

Restaurants have always been entertaining, even without the “concepts.” Nowhere else, for example, could you enjoy the delicious irony of a wave of water crashing down from a leaky awning over the group of people who founded Colorado’s Ocean Journey–as they sat in a seafood joint picking at crab carcasses…

Mouthing Off

The inn crowd: The Schmoozers sign that had hung over the space at 4400 East Eighth Avenue has disappeared, replaced by one proclaiming that the place is once again The College Inn, the name it had gone by since the Fifties. But while that identity crisis has apparently been straightened…

Raising the Bar

Is Cafe Cero a bar, or is it a restaurant? After more than a year in business, Lynne Ida still can’t answer that question. “Okay, this definitely is not the place to come for a full-blown menu and sit-down experience,” she ventures. “Between 4 and 9 p.m., we’re dead for…

The Pita Principle

Ali Awada left his native Lebanon and came to Colorado eleven years ago, when his brother married a woman from Denver. “My family has restaurants in Lebanon, but when I moved here I went to work as a financier for American Express,” Awada explains. “But I love cooking so much,…

Mouthing Off

A bite of the big Apple: Chef Matt Selby of Vesta Dipping Grill, at 1822 Blake Street, is just back from a stint at New York’s Gramercy Tavern. Sent there by Vesta owner Josh Wolkon to work with Gramercy owner Danny Meyer and chef Tom Colicchio in order to come…

The Latest Buzz

Since The Hornet opened in 1996, the restaurant has been busier than the proverbial bee–but the food hasn’t always gotten good buzz (“The Green Hornet,” June 6, 1996). Initially, the most appealing thing about the place was the cavernous space, which had been cleaned of decades of clutter left by…

Mouthing Off

Mouth of the border: For years, Cafe Brazil (see review above) was one of just a handful of South American spots in town, but now we’re about to get more cuisine from countries far south of the border. This fall, the old home of Chives, at 1120 East Sixth Avenue,…

Jungle Gem

When Tony Zarlenga first spotted Marla Maria Diaz, they were both on vacation in Greece. “I was by myself, and I noticed this girl on the other side of the boat who was laughing and having a good time,” he remembers. “She had a wonderful smile, and I kept thinking…

No Day at the Beach

From the start, the concept seemed fishy. An all-you-can-eat sushi spread sounds promising for about three seconds–until you start thinking about just how long that raw fish has to sit out there under those bright lights before everyone has eaten his fill or the joint closes for the evening. But…

Mouthing Off

Bested of Denver: I’ve been involved with the last six Best of Denver issues (there have been sixteen altogether), and the June 24 edition was the toughest yet. Yes, there are more restaurants here than when I started, but that doesn’t mean there are more good restaurants–much less consistently good…

Hut Stuff!

When your cardiologist isn’t looking, motor down to the Bamboo Hut on Larimer Street, slip onto a bar stool and order a big bowl of green chile. But before devouring this masterpiece, drop five or six crunchy nuggets from your side order of chicharrones into the steaming bowl. Stir well,…

Mouthing Off

Clam up: Here’s a truly Italian dish that just made its way onto the menu at Panzano (see review this page), and while I didn’t try it in the restaurant, it turned out beautifully at home. Panzano’s Clams With Prosciutto, Leeks, Tomatoes and Sherry 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus…

Bread Alert

My two young daughters and I were playing ladies who lunch the other day when the four-year-old suddenly pointed at what was obviously a hard-as-a-brick loaf of bread in the window next to our table. “Can we eat that?” she asked. “No,” I said. “It’s just there for decoration.” “Why?”…

Big Talker

Monaghan’s Tavern prides itself on Big. It’s home to the Monster Beer (huge), the Monster Burger (not so huge) and–on Wednesday nights–the Monster T-Bone Steak (huger than some, smaller than others). This neighborhood bar is also Big on its own history. For instance, owner Niles Oppenheimer, who bought the place…

Mouthing Off

Singing the blues: The music was great at last weekend’s Denver Blues and Bones Festival, but many barbecue fans have a bone to pick with the organizers. Although the event included a two-day barbecue championship, with contestants ranging from mom-and-pop joints to backyard cooks and the final round of judging…