Not So Hot

The Denver Tech Center is so hungry for decent restaurants (any restaurant, really) that people get weepy every time a new Taco Bell opens. Still, it’s a crying shame that the hot-hot Cool River Cafe serves such so-so meals. By placing his $5 million venture in the heart of the…

2nd Helping

When Markus Georg opened his Chinook Tavern back in 1995, it looked like the sort of place that would be a hit for a short time — the baby boomers of Cherry Creek are always willing to try a new watering hole — but then business would dry up and…

Naked Lunch

Directly in front of our table, a G-stringed blonde was scraping her nipples across what must have been a very cold floor. From behind us came the sounds — just barely audible over the shriek of Billy Idol covering L.A. Woman — of someone getting his lap danced upon; to…

Luna Tunes

The odd things that happen in restaurants are stranger than any fiction I could cook up. For starters, how about a moldy piece of cake, with big, green, slimy rings in plain view of the server as he set it down? Another server tried to tell me that the chardonnay…

A Big Win

Dennis Miller’s prime-time rants have yet to veer too far afield from football, but give him time. For now, he has the luxury of slurping down beef tenderloin and shrimp cocktail in a private box at the stadium after each game. But he’d fast lose that chipper demeanor — not…

Where’s the Bison?

It’s lean, it’s healthy, it’s hairy, and it sure makes for a more marketable mascot than some thick-headed bovine that doesn’t have sense enough to gum the people injecting it full of hormones. It’s buffalo — or, to be precise, bison — and the list of reasons to eat it…

All Fired Up

Fondue brings out a person’s true nature. First there are the control freaks, the folks who begin coordinating the fondue forks the second the pots start heating up. “Okay, Sally, Jim and I will use the court bouillon for the first fifteen minutes while you guys cook in oil, and…

2nd Helping

When the Melting Pot opened, it featured one of the cheesiest campaigns imaginable. Diners were supposed to order their servers to “fondue me” — and, in fact, the resulting service was so bad that those diners probably would have preferred being dropped in boiling oil to suffering through another meal…

Counter Claim

Question: What do you get when two California lawyers decide to open up their own pizzeria? Answer: A lot of pizzerias. But the California Pizza Kitchen is no joke. As of last week, when a second Colorado location opened at FlatIron Crossing, there are 83 full-service CPKs, as they like…

Colorado Pizza Kitchen

It was the first restaurant I reviewed for Westword , and in the years since, both Fratelli’s and I have gone through a few changes. Fratelli’s made its debut as a Colorado pizza kitchen more than twenty years ago, which puts it way ahead of the California Pizza Kitchen (see…

The Name Game

Skydiner, bo-biner, banana-fana fo-finer, fee-fi mo-miner, Skydiner. Before they opened their second venture, the principals from The Hornet — Dave French, Brewster Hanson, Paul Greaves and Lisa Quinn — held a contest to name the space they’d taken over at 1700 Vine Street, the spot long occupied by Juanita’s Uptown…

Special Attractions

You are not finished,” the seventy-year-old waiter scolded as he grabbed a spoon and scooped the bottom out of my seafood-filled potato boat, plopping the sauce-soaked spuds mound in the center of my plate. “You eat this, and then you are finished.” I wasn’t about to argue. After all, this…

Power Bar

I thought I was done for when the Bay Wolf went down,” says Rich Salturelli, remembering his Cherry Creek hot spot. “I got a divorce, and I gave the restaurant to her, and then she ran it into the ground. Me and my brother, Thom, who has the Cricket on…

Still in the Swim

Like so many other great culinary creations — cheese, jerky, prosciutto, pickles — sushi was invented as a way of preserving food. In early Japan, slices of raw fish were sandwiched between layers of heavily salted rice, with a stone then placed on top. Months later, the rice/fishwich was ready…

Good God!

Raise your hand if you didn’t leave Sacre Bleu satisfied — or get satisfied shortly after leaving. No? You are soooo in the minority. This what’s-old-is-nouvelle-again restaurant specializes in feeding all the appetites — the hunger for attention, the hunger for food, the hunger for sex. Even the name is…

Mumbo Gumbo

Years from now, we’ll look back at the turn of the century and remember a time when you could have cybersex with a perfect stranger who remained a perfect stranger, buy a car from someone whose hand you never shook and have your precious retirement money moved around by someone…

2nd Helping

When I first visited Great Northern Tavern, the place was a virtual train wreck, with some ill-conceived dishes colliding with poor timing (“Train in Vain,” December 10, 1998). But today it’s the best brewpub in Denver. So how did Great Northern get back on track? First and foremost, the restaurant…

Noodling Around

Americans make movies about violence and sex, and the Japanese make movies about violence and food. So who do you think makes the better noodles? If you’ve seen the film Tampopo, you know that the noodle house is serious business in Japan. In that movie, a truck driver, Goro, who…

Say What?

What’s in a name? The Latin colloquialism for “talk of the town” was a good fit for La Fabula; long before the restaurant actually opened, the neighborhood was talking about what kind of eatery would be brave — or foolhardy — enough to take on a location with a long,…

Bad Karma, Sad Shawarma

Even though we’re tasting from the same plate, the lamb shawarma I eat and the lamb shawarma my friend Gerry eats are two different dishes. When Gerry takes a bite of the grilled, marinated lamb, she’s eating a traditional dish created by her Lebanese ancestors, an entree that her grandmother…

On a Roll

No city is more revered for its culinary prowess than Paris, and certainly, its restaurants boast gastronomic delights without equal. Still, after several visits and many, many meals there — sometimes I ate two dinners in a day just to get to all of the places “they” said I had…

All Thai’d Up

The first step in dealing with an addiction to Thai food is admitting that you have a problem. The second is accepting that there are no more steps — because who can contemplate a cure that bans curry?Chile peppers can be physically addicting, according to recent medical evidence. The reasons…