I first encountered Theo Roe’s cooking at Pinots, a restaurant that seemed to have everything going for it, not the least of which was a talented chef. Still, the place closed down in August 1997 at the ripe old age of nine months. “It was just a combination of things…
When the kitchen cooperates, 29 Mile Cantina (reviewed above) puts out some tasty fare, especially the Santa Monica chicken, which co-owner Laura Brody named after the last stop on Route 66 before you hit the Pacific. When I made this dish at home, I pounded the chicken breasts a bit…
So I was all, where’s my food? And the server was all, it’s totally coming soon, and I was all, well, it had better get here or I’m walking out, and the server was all, I’m so sorry, but there’s, like, a problem in the kitchen. These days, it seems…
Since Japan has been infested with American fast-food chains since the late Sixties, it’s only fair that we’d get a few Japanese fast-food outlets three decades later. Certainly, things could be worse: The modest spots serving quick, cheap Japanese fare that have popped up in Denver are individually owned, unlike…
Soy to the world: If you believe the hype, soybeans could be the next Prozac. This versatile little legume–which is available as a fresh bean, coagulated into tofu, fermented into tempeh and miso, pressed into milk and salted into sauce–reportedly may help in preventing cancer, lowering cholesterol, reducing heart disease,…
When Viagra sauce recently appeared on the menu of a hotel restaurant in France, not only did it give new meaning to the phrase bon appetit, but it also further blurred the already fuzzy lines between food and sex–especially where French cuisine is concerned. Jean-Louise Galland, the chef responsible for…
Sweetbreads of life: Organ meats aren’t for everyone, but those who’ve discovered the seductive charms of sweetbreads know that this delicacy ranks among the most hedonistic foods around. Leave it to the French to be its most ardent consumers: Not only are sweetbreads incredibly high in cholesterol, but French recipes…
Asia like it: The Pacific Rim influence isn’t new to Denver–chefs here have been fusing East and West for nearly a decade now, with mixed results. Generally, the restaurants that were successful got there by giving traditional American and European dishes an Asian accent, gently applying Pacific Rim cooking concepts…
It’s dinner time on a Friday night, and the LoDo streets are packed with people in cars looking for places to park and people on foot looking for places to eat. At some restaurants, there’s an hour wait for a table; at every restaurant within a six-block radius, the wait’s…
Kansas City smells of barbecue, especially on road trips when cash is short and hunger’s high, and the aroma just intensifies until there’s nothing you can do but stop at a roadside stand and get a bag of bones that will last you through Nebraska. But Kansas City has another…
Take a dip: Every decade has its dip. Clam dip in the Fifties. Lipton Onion Soup dip in the Sixties. Yogurt in the swinging Seventies. Hummus in the international Eighties. And the Nineties? During the past decade, assorted artichoke dips–sometimes with spinach, sometimes with chiles, and always heavy on the…
Into the mouths of babes: You’d be surprised at how many places around here welcome your kids with a smile. While Joe’s Crab Shack (see above review) is one of the better ones, my kids have other favorites–spots that not only greet them with open arms, but also serve food…
I’ll admit it–I take my kids to McDonald’s. Hey, I’m just like any other parent: Sometimes I simply want to feed them fast without messing up the kitchen. And while I’d rather treat the kids to some place where they–and I–can appreciate good food, Tante Louise does not have a…
Big Q, little q, what begins with Q? How about some grown-up answers to the childhood chant? Quaint, quirky, quality–they all describe the exquisite Q’s. Qualms? Chef/owner John Platt admits to several. The restaurant’s sous chef when it opened in 1991, Platt took over the place two years later, when…
What’s cooking? Beginning with this week’s Cafe, when I review a restaurant where the chef turns out particularly noteworthy food, as John Platt does at Q’s, I’ll try to include a recipe (as long as the chef is willing to share it). And if I can’t recommend any dish at…
After the fall of Saigon in 1975, the Communists officially renamed Vietnam’s largest city Ho Chi Minh City–but that didn’t prevent millions of Vietnamese people from continuing to call it Saigon. The natives were so persistent, in fact, that officials finally compromised and decided to allow the center of Ho…
Critic’s choice: Restaurant roulette continues as Bill St. John, the food guru for Microsoft’s Denver Sidewalk (www.denver.sidewalk.com), gets a second home at 5280, the almost-monthly magazine that’s had a hole to fill since perpetually cheerful Channel 4 reporter Greg Moody moved to the Rocky Mountain News to fill the spot…
This spud’s for you: What’s a good bacon-and-eggs breakfast without hash browns? The word “hash” means to chop into small pieces (not grate), and although it’s time-consuming, hash browns are better when they’re hand-hashed (as they are at Sunnyside Up Cafe, reviewed above). Take a large pile of the irregular-sized…
The guy at the table behind me had the waitress right where he wanted her. “Ha! You’re not going to believe this,” he said to his two buddies. “I asked that girl if this O.J. was fresh-squeezed, and she says it is. The hell it is! I been coming here…
What Planet are they on?: While 16th Street Mall restaurants try to get their act together in anticipation of Denver Pavilions, that other big downtown project, Stadium Walk in LoDo, is still supposed to contain a Planet Hollywood. A minor PR flack for the company says it’s a go, despite…
Sixteenth Street has come a long way, baby, since the Rialto Theater opened in 1916. Today the street is a pedestrian mall, where souvenir shops outnumber other retail options, national-chain eateries outgun locally owned restaurants (see “Mall Flounders,” August 6), and all the movie palaces closed decades ago. But when…
Rymer reason: Last week Gary Rymer won his case in Denver County Court’s small claims division against Budapest Bistro (1585 South Pearl Street) and its owners, Rudi and Anna Hellvig. In June, Rymer had filed suit against the Hellvigs, claiming they’d been taking from 20 to 30 percent of his…
