Like so many other great culinary creations — cheese, jerky, prosciutto, pickles — sushi was invented as a way of preserving food. In early Japan, slices of raw fish were sandwiched between layers of heavily salted rice, with a stone then placed on top. Months later, the rice/fishwich was ready…
Raise your hand if you didn’t leave Sacre Bleu satisfied — or get satisfied shortly after leaving. No? You are soooo in the minority. This what’s-old-is-nouvelle-again restaurant specializes in feeding all the appetites — the hunger for attention, the hunger for food, the hunger for sex. Even the name is…
Years from now, we’ll look back at the turn of the century and remember a time when you could have cybersex with a perfect stranger who remained a perfect stranger, buy a car from someone whose hand you never shook and have your precious retirement money moved around by someone…
When I first visited Great Northern Tavern, the place was a virtual train wreck, with some ill-conceived dishes colliding with poor timing (“Train in Vain,” December 10, 1998). But today it’s the best brewpub in Denver. So how did Great Northern get back on track? First and foremost, the restaurant…
Americans make movies about violence and sex, and the Japanese make movies about violence and food. So who do you think makes the better noodles? If you’ve seen the film Tampopo, you know that the noodle house is serious business in Japan. In that movie, a truck driver, Goro, who…
What’s in a name? The Latin colloquialism for “talk of the town” was a good fit for La Fabula; long before the restaurant actually opened, the neighborhood was talking about what kind of eatery would be brave — or foolhardy — enough to take on a location with a long,…
Even though we’re tasting from the same plate, the lamb shawarma I eat and the lamb shawarma my friend Gerry eats are two different dishes. When Gerry takes a bite of the grilled, marinated lamb, she’s eating a traditional dish created by her Lebanese ancestors, an entree that her grandmother…
No city is more revered for its culinary prowess than Paris, and certainly, its restaurants boast gastronomic delights without equal. Still, after several visits and many, many meals there — sometimes I ate two dinners in a day just to get to all of the places “they” said I had…
The first step in dealing with an addiction to Thai food is admitting that you have a problem. The second is accepting that there are no more steps — because who can contemplate a cure that bans curry?Chile peppers can be physically addicting, according to recent medical evidence. The reasons…
I’ve eaten at Le Central many times over the past six years, and I’ve always encountered some kind of problem. Often they’ve been production-oriented glitches, ranging from tardy courses to overcooked seafood (“Waiting for Gateau,” October 17, 1996); sometimes servers have failed to refill water glasses or replace silverwear. Out…
Ohana. That’s a Hawaiian term that translates as “the family and aloha spirit,” says Alex Fabrigas, the general manager of Roy’s Cherry Creek. But when Fabrigas left a Hawaii Roy’s to bring us this new restaurant in the Cherry Creek Shopping Center, he didn’t just bring ohana with him –…
When Hemingway’s Key West Grille first opened in 1996 — actually, it sort of reopened, since a Hemingway’s (minus the words “Key West Grille”) occupied the same building on Old South Gaylord from 1977 to 1985 — the author must have been rolling over in his grave. I know a…
A friend just back from Vietnam has been recounting the mouthwatering food she enjoyed there: dishes that involved dozens of fresh, just-plucked-from-the-ground- or-ocean ingredients; abundant feasts that brought platter after platter of multilayered concoctions; snacks much more inventive and healthier than a bag of potato chips. All things, of course,…
You can bet that while Wally and the Beav were washing up for supper, June wasn’t busy ripping the lids off to-go containers. And no way did Ward stop by the takeout market after a hard day at the office to pick up some ready-made pasta and sauce. Making dinner…
When Uncle Bobby comes visiting from Connecticut and college roommate Susie stops by on her way from Chicago to L.A., they always want to “experience” the Old West in a way that lets them return to friends and families and confirm that, “Yep, out there in Cularada, they eat that…
The 3400 block of West 32nd Avenue is a melting pot. A green-and-purple-painted bookshop shares the street with antique stores, the South American eatery Sabor Latino, a coffee shop, a purveyor of new-age paraphernalia, a liquor store, a clothing exchange, several burrito spots and an ugly apartment building framed in…
A big dish of spaghetti and meatballs smothered with a righteous red sauce — this was my idea of a collection plate. While legislatures debate whether the Ten Commandments should be posted in public schools or if Good Friday ought to be an official holiday, food remains comfortingly nondenominational. Everyone…
In spring, some young restaurateurs’ thoughts turn to fancy creations they can make out of asparagus and baby peas. But the sophisticated 240 Union doesn’t stop there. Chef Matthew Franklin pulls from his extensive experience to create elaborate combinations that not only showcase what’s fresh and readily available, but also…
Texan ambitions seem to be as big as everything else down there. In the last year, two groups of former Texans have opened Mexican-oriented eateries within six blocks of each other in LoDo, and both are as ambitious as they come. Although the restaurants feature different styles that may appeal…
Confucius say: Man who lay woman on ground, have piece on earth. By the time we cracked open this cookie, we were looking at the world through rose-colored glasses. And skull-shaped glasses. And flaming volcano glasses. In short, it had been another wonderful evening at Twin Dragon, and the smiling…
When Sushi Boat was launched several years ago, a trip there was anything but smooth sailing. For starters, you had to find the funky little spot, tucked away on a side street next to the Marriott at I-25 and Hampden. Once you were inside, the setup was wonderful — a…
If you paint a sign on your restaurant window that reads, “The best there ever was. The best there is. The best there will ever be,” you’d better be prepared to back up that claim. And Sami Kraydie, owner of the four-month-old Sinbad that bears that sign, is ready to…
