Audio By Carbonatix
Q:Do you know of any places in Denver that serve dim sum?
A:Loosely translated, the Cantonese term “dim sum” means “dot hearts” or “little heart warmers.” These heartwarming tidbits were created around 960 A.D., when tea houses became all the rage during the Sung Dynasty. Today, the tasty snacks are served any time of the day in China, where they’re also called yum cha.
In Denver, Golden Plate (7180 East Hampden Avenue, 303-639-9898), my favorite dim sum place — for both food and atmosphere — has the dish available weekends only, between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.; that day’s freshly prepared dim sum possibilities, including jellyfish salad, sesame pockets stuffed with ground chicken or pork, dumplings, noodle dishes and steamed buns, are listed on a special paper roster. (In China, as well as in many of San Francisco’s dim sum restaurants, the dishes are sent out on carts, and you get to pick and choose your meal from what’s presented to you.) Empress Seafood Restaurant (2825 West Alameda Avenue, 303-922-2822) serves dim sum day and night; its offerings are similar to those at Golden Plate, and it also boasts a wider variety of vegetable tidbits, such as pan-fried turnip cakes. The Malaysian muffins, with their strong vanilla flavor and custardy texture, are ideal finales.
If you’d like to re-create the dim sum experience in the comfort of your own home, Celestial Bakery (333 South Federal Boulevard, 303-936-2339) turns out delightful little tidbits, both sweet and savory, available for take-out every day but Wednesday. Although the selection changes often, you can almost always count on steamed buns of some sort, a few custard tarts and sticky muffins, all of which you can eat to your little heart’s content.
