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First, there were the white trash enchiladas at the Rio Grande, followed by the white trash au gratin potatoes at Simms Steakhouse, which, to complement those scene-stealing views of Denver’s skyline, now has a menu (and a chef in Moosah Reaume, formerly of Willie G’s Seafood & Steak) that just might give us city snobs a reason to cross the suburban threshold.
But before you do that, you need to pinpoint the location of today’s white trash french fries, a splendidly large basket of hand-cut, thin tubers swizzled with cheese sauce and topped with chopped bacon and scallions. And ranch dressing…if you want it.
Bet you can’t eat just one.
