Audio By Carbonatix
On the occasion of a certain green-hued, ethnically dubious drinking holiday, I expected to be safe from the craziness in the bamboo-walled space of Adrift, Denver’s only true tiki bar. But the popularity of this South Broadway misfit at happy hour is a sign that Adrift isn’t just a goofy novelty.
I had already seen how Adrift had melded the self-aware cheesiness of the “Polynesian” watering holes of yesteryear with the know-it-all mixology of today. Even through the specialty drinks here have tons of ingredients, skyscraping garnishes and eye-popping presentations (like a fishbowl of booze), the bar approaches each with real craftsmanship and flair. That makes the happy hour discounts, offered from 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 4 and 7 p.m. on Friday, all the more attractive.
Seated beneath a drop-down screen playing Tora! Tora! Tora! (Really, guys? Lost your copy of Endless Summer?), I scanned through the list of classic tiki drinks on special, wading in with a mai tai ($5), which Adrift has based on the immortal Trader Vic’s recipe, but given a modern touch with Dancing Pines cask rum from Loveland. Tempting layers of citrus, mild rum and a touch of sweet made for a drink worthy of its surroundings — though the big hit here appears to be the creamy, coconutty Macadamia Nut Chi-Chi ($5).
It may not get as much attention as the bar, but Adrift’s kitchen can bring out a pretty robust menu of Eastern-influenced bar food. Just don’t be fooled by the happy hour menu — there aren’t any edible discounts here, just appetizers like calamari and egg rolls from sister restaurant Swing Thai. Adrift also hosts Taco Tuesdays with carnitas, fish or Spam tacos for $2, and I had to get a dose of the islands with a bit of processed meat product. The Spam tacos are given a simple treatment — just a toss in the pan and some lettuce and tomato — but they’re tuned perfectly to Adrift’s vibe. The rest of the menu is a bit scattershot: crispy fried plantain gave the mufongo chips ($5) the right snap but were dragged down by a cloying coconut rum reduction, while a bowl of edamame just didn’t have enough snap or salt to complement the spice dusting.
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Call it idol worship if you like, but Adrift’s tiki paradise is still drawing crowds nearly three years after its opening. Happy hour here is like a miniature umbrella: fun, but practically superfluous.
Perfect for: If anyone remembers Trader Vic’s or Don The Beachcomber, both of which operated downtown during the golden age of tiki bars, a visit to Adrift would be a real trip.
Don’t miss: if Adrift has a signature drink, it’s the Planters Punch ($44). A giant bowl of fruit juice and rum set aflame, four or more thirsty thrillseekers suck it down with foot-long straws. Please guzzle responsibly.
