Second Helping

For two decades, Racines was the meeting spot of first and last resort in Denver. Neighbors and power brokers, college kids and yuppies — it didn’t matter who you were or where you were coming from (or even what time you wanted to meet), there was always room for you at Racines. But then Racines lost its home of twenty years, and regulars had to wait almost a year for the new, improved Racines to open a few minutes away in its own building, a space that has much of the original’s open (and open-to-all) feeling but also an updated color scheme and decor. There’s also a parking garage and more seating, which is smart, because business has been pretty much non-stop since this Racines opened its doors in May 2004. People flock here for breakfasts both hearty and healthy, for the margaritas, for the simple, comforting menu of Mexi-American standards and diner classics served late into the evening. They come for the vibe of happy urban camaraderie that infuses the place on its best nights, and the solid kitchen and floor staffers who are here every night. And while the original location wasn’t exactly sedate, the new Racines sees waits at the door on days when other restaurateurs would dance naked on the rooftops if they thought it would bring in enough warm bodies to fill half the dining room. Is this the best restaurant in Denver? No, but it was never trying to be. Instead, this may be the one restaurant in town where everyone is always happy to go. $-$$