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Casa Bonita

You do not go to Casa Bonita for the food: dated Tex-Mex, though the meal-ending unlimited sopaipillas, accompanied by a squeeze bottle of honey, are a consolation prize. Think of the entree, which every adult is required to purchase, as the price of admission: Eat what you can and buckle up for a wild ride. Beyond the cafeteria line in this four-decade-old institution, cliff divers leap into a minuscule pool in a variety of vaguely dated shows, hawkers offer overpriced light sabers and tiaras, an arcade teems with teenagers, and Black Bart’s crystal-filled cave continues to torment toddlers. Request a table in the grotto, and ask for the booze menu when you sit down — you’ll find a decent run of Mexican beer and too-sweet margaritas to help you get in the mood. Denver’s weirdest Mexican restaurant is a rite of passage, so gather a group, pony up your plate fee, and get ready to sword-fight, gorilla-wrangle, flag-raise and Skee-Ball your way into official residency status.

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