Indulge is a warm, happy house, with a curtained dining room, a marble-topped dwarf bar and what look like furnishings from a Normandy farmhouse restaurant unloaded into an abandoned Italian trattoria - which this space used to be. Chef/owner William Wahl's family runs a restaurant in France, Au Vrai Normand, and after a stint with Kevin Taylor, Wahl and his wife decided it was finally time for a place of their own. The menu they've assembled is a beautiful, overwhelmingly delicious board of straight French classics and American iterations, all approached with perfect French technique.