Mali Thai Cuisine

Some may like it hot, but that’s not what the people behind Mali Thai Cuisine, which opened in late 2012 in south Denver, believe. “American people, some never eat Thai food,” says general manager Alex Tongbua, a native of Thailand. “We tend to give things mild.” And that’s a shame, especially if you’re trying to beat the heat. Think of the world’s spiciest foods -- harissa, Jamaican jerk, chile-laden salsas -- and you’ll be thinking of hot climates where foods make people sweat, producing a naturally cooling evaporative effect. In this country, however, the practice isn’t as instinctual as it is elsewhere -- certainly nowhere near as instinctual as ordering a cold Chang beer. But even if Mali’s dishes aren’t as hot as you might desire, they’re quite tasty, and the green curry, tom kha and pad eggplant all sport a proper spice level. All in all, the colorful, comfortable Mali Thai Cuisine is a very welcome addition to a part of town that could use a walk on the wild side.