Opinion | Reader Response

In Our Hearts, the Imperial Closed a Long Time Ago

The Imperial had a forty-year run, but the last few years were very rough, readers remember.
building with an "Imperial" sign on it
Imperial Chinese had been open since 1985.

Molly Martin

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Imperial Chinese was founded in 1985 by Johnny Hsu, who’d immigrated to Denver from Hong Kong in 1979 after attending culinary school. “I learned all kinds of cooking there: Cantonese, Szechuan, barbecue, even French cooking,” he told Westword in 2011. “I knew I was going to work in the restaurants in America.”

And he went on to found one of the most popular Chinese spots in town. But after almost forty years, Hsu sold Imperial in 2023, and while the new owner had big ideas, they never materialized…and customers heading to the Imperial last week found the place locked up tight. “After many years at Imperial Chinese we have made the difficult decision to close our doors. Due to rising operating costs and ongoing economic challenges, this was not an easy decision,” reads a note left on the door of the restaurant at 421 South Broadway.

In their comments on the Westword Facebook post of the news, readers remember good times and bad (sometimes very bad) at the Imperial. Says Bernadette:

The best place to get Chinese food in Denver.

Responds Charles:

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At one time. Not lately.

Adds Dave:

My thoughts exactly. I can remember in the late ’80s/early ’90s when Imperial was one of the best lunches in town.

Offers Michael:

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In our hearts, it closed a long time ago when the quality took a nose dive.

Recalls Barbara:

The Imperial was our go-to Sunday night restaurant for years. It was never the same without Johnny Hsu.

Adds Tom:

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My father and I built that sign for Johnny Hsu 35 years ago. He was a visionary in the Denver restaurant scene. I’m sad to see it close.

Offers Roniit:

It was not abrupt enough, if you ask me. I remember waiting an hour for a table we reserved on Christmas, then when we got seated the waiter never came for another hour. Finally the table next to us took pity and gave us their leftovers. We left and went to Waffle House.

Wonders Kit:

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Where do we go for good Chinese food? New York? San Francisco? I do not like it, and someone said it’s because I haven’t eaten good Chinese food. Could be true.

In other comments, readers offered some suggestions for alternative eateries: MAKfam and Karma, both just blocks from the Imperial location. Or Sunflower, which is several miles south and just off Broadway.

What did you think of the Imperial? What’s your go-to spot for Chinese food? Post a comment or share your thoughts at editorial@westword.com.

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